Basics - copying wall contours

[woof]

Hello All,
Pretty basic question here but I would like to get a wood upright to exactly match the wall. Surprisingly the wall is not straight but rather, has a slight (2-3mm) concave shape. Anyway how best to match the upright with the wall so as not to leave gaps?
1. Get one of those pin - contour things - a profile guage? But these are not very long so how would that work for the full wall height?
2. There is the "Trend perfect butt" - but this seems too simple to actually work. Anyone had any experience with this?
3. Hide the gp behind beading. OK this is the easy way out, but I will always know the awful workmanship lurking below!

If 1 or 2 work, is bandsawing or planing the solution? Or sanding?

Opinions gratefully recieved.

Mark

 

[Slim]

If its only 2-3mm, just use a pencil and a washer to scribe the line.

 

[TonyW]

Hi Mark
I would go with Simons washer idea - very similar to the Trend Perfect Butt principle and a damn sight cheaper.

You could also try a compass if the distance too great. Or make a purpose made guide as shown in the scribing link below

Link HERE

Cheers
Tony

 

[Rich]

Hi Mark, I use my sons school compass, size the upright, say, 1/4" wider than needed, butt it up to the wall, open the compasses to 1/4" and scribe a line all the way down holding the compass point against the wall, this will follow the contour and the pencil will give you the cut line, hth.
regards,
Rich.

 

[CNC Paul]

Pencil & washer works for me.


Paul

 

[dennis]

Mark
This might seem obvious but dont forget to pack your timber plumb before you scribe it
Dennis

 

[NeilO]

Im with Slim ......a pencil and a washer

 

[neilyweely]

ditto washer

I end up scribing dodgy walls almost daily , and there are alternatives to washers, but the idea is the same, and it works.

Never tried the trend, but am sure it works well, however for a really difficult edge you could consider a contour guide, although bear in mind the metal ones are useless ( the pins bend all over the place ) so buy one with plastic teeth.

Regarding the cut of the final line you could use a band-saw if it is a long length, I have always used a hand saw and sandpaper, but then i don't have the luxury of a bandsaw as I am always on site. Alternatively you could use a plane. Me? I'd use a bandsaw if I had one. Eerr. Or a plane.

 

[woof]

Just love the idea of the washer - so simple it is bound to work! Will give it a whirl. Thanks all.

 

[Shultzy]

I use a pencil and cotton reel.

 

[SeanG]

pencil & cotton reel too

for an important piece I do a test run on some scrap sheet material, check the fit, adjust as approriate and then use the sheet as a template with a guide bush/router combination.

 

[Anonymous]

_____

 

[Pekka Huhta]

For larger curves for example on wooden boats I use just copper pipe that can be bent to the right shape.

It is accurate enough to make a template, which is then used to cut the precise pattern...

...for a mold for laminated ribs this time.

A bit off-topic, but I hope someone has some use for the tip.

Pekka

 

[woodbloke]

Similar sort of idea to the pencil and washer, but use a large-ish button instead...the pencil point will then locate exactly into one of the button holes and won't wander - Rob

 

[Anonymous]

Hi, in the 2008 Axminster catalogue on page 374 there is a product called 'multiscribe professional.

In the bottom left picture can someone tell me how they made the scribes around the pipes the exact size with this device as from what i see the bottom edge would touch the pipe before the pointy bit does so making the scribe bigger by the size from the point to either edge?

Steve.

 

[Jake]

We discussed this a while ago - the conclusion was that there was some photoshopping going on.
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/view ... ibe#150388