bandsaw problems, Record

[Jezmaster]

hello, im having problems cutting straight line on my bandsaw, when free handing, and also when using rip fence. its bugging me, coz im not using machine to its full potneial.

also i can seem to push the blade in quite a bit, even wen temtions is wound up.



any idea what it could be.

 

[Rich]

A close up pic from the front showing the blade guides would be helpful in diagnosing your problem.

Rich.

 

[beejay]

If the blade is moving around too much then it sounds as if the guide assembly isn't set up properly.
Ive noticed on a friend's saw, same as yours, that the guides do need resetting quite frequently.
As well as side guides for the blade, check the rear roller isn't set too far behind the rear edge of the blade.
Also, just because the tension is on, it may not have been set properly and can be further adjusted. When set properly, the blade should give a 'ping' noise when plucked.
Incorrect guide assembly and blade tension will cause the blade to wander but don't assume one blade will cover all jobs on a bandsaw. Make sure you have the correct blade for the job /wood.
regards, Bill

 

[OPJ]

Tension isn't really critical unless you're deep resawing - that's when you really need to listen out for that 'high note'. :wink: If you're only cutting 2" thick stuff then you should be alright setting the tension to the next marker up on the scale (eg. 5/8" for a 1/2" blade), which usually works fine.

Thrust bearings should be no more than 1mm behind the blade in its resting position and the side guides should be up to 0.5mm away, set 2mm behind the gullets of the teeth.

What width of blade are you using and where did you buy it? If it's the one that came with the saw then you may as well replace it! (I highly recommend Dragon Saws.)

The problem could be 'blade drift'. When you run the timber against the fence, does the timber drift away? This would suggest that the fence needs adjusting to compensate for the cutting direction of the blade - you may have to do this each time you change the blade. Take a piece of MDF with one straight edge a scribe a parallel pencil line. Follow the pencil line carefully with your saw, stopping at about halfway to clamp it in place. Now, you can set your fence - I'm sure the Record ones are adjustable - to the straight edge (or, draw a pencil line on your table).

If you've been using the same blade for cutting curves then this could also cause the set on either side of the blade to become uneven, which would cause the blade to wander.

Hope this helps.

 

[Jake]

Is the blade the right length?

 

[maltrout512]

What width of blade are you using and where did you buy it? If it's the one that came with the saw then you may as well replace it! (I highly recommend Dragon Saws.)

I'm with OPJ on that.

 

[OLD]

Clean wheels fit new blade 'important' I like 0.5 inch on this saw which I have, set tension check/adjust for central running on wheels. with all guides backed off move 1 top guide to blade check action of height adjustment and adjust for best then set guides up to hand book and check table for square.

 

[Jezmaster]

What width of blade are you using and where did you buy it? If it's the one that came with the saw then you may as well replace it! (I highly recommend Dragon Saws.)

I'm with OPJ on that.

thanks for replying, i brought some blades from a toolshow where i picked up bandsaw from at ally pally, abt 1 year ago.

 

[Jezmaster]

as requested

 

[Rich]

Have a look under the table Jez, and make sure the blade has'nt jumped out of the groove.


Rich.

 

[Jezmaster]

thats in, its bugging me, coz i followed the setup dvd i got wen i brough it, and still no joy

 

[andy king]

Hi Jez,

looking at the pics you've posted, the blade looks a little fine toothed if you are doing ripping or even deep freehand stuff. I'd be looking for about a 3 or 4 skip tooth for ripping work, fine blades such as this do cut slowly and can drift as well, they are better suited for ply/MDF and crosscut work.

Andy

 

[Jake]

When you say you can push the blade in quite a bit when it is on full tension, by how much?

 

[Jezmaster]

just under half an inch

 

[Jake]

I really think that has to be a blade length issue - the photo of the bandwheels show the top wheel is fully extended or nearly so, so either the band is too long or it is made of elastic!

Have you tried other blades on it?

 

[CHJ]

I really think that has to be a blade length issue - the photo of the bandwheels show the top wheel is fully extended or nearly so, so either the band is too long or it is made of elastic!

Have you tried other blades on it?

Judging by the indicator, bottom left, I think you are correct about too long a blade, there appears to be very little tension on it.

 

[OLD]

Its difficult to see but is the side guides just under the gullet of the blade and supporting it to max effect there is lots of adjustment available once the blade is centred on the wheels position the guides then set the back guides if this is not set up the blade will twist and wander.

 

[OPJ]

Having looked at the photo's again, I agree with Chas and Jake - the top wheel is very close to the top of the cabinet, meaning the tension must be wound up to around its limit.

What I've found to work with my saw is to take the manufacturer's specified blade length (2240mm) and to knock 5mm off the length when ordering - so, when contacting Ian at Dragon Saws, I'll ask for blades 2235mm long. This means you don't have to crank up the tension as much - saving you work and, saving the thread on the tensioning mechanism! :wink:

Do you know the manufacturer of this blade? Perhaps if you contact them they will trim and re-weld them for you?

There is a formula for determining the blade length but, I can't remember what it is right now...

 

[Jezmaster]

i brought the same length as blade that was supplied on with bandsaw, tension is right to max

 

[Jake]

It has to be the wrong length unless the frame is made of cheese. Seriously.