Bandsaw blues - buying advice needed

[chris19802]

Hello,

I have a Clarke 9" hobby bandsaw which I bought second hand about a year ago, and whatever I do I cannot get it to cut straight - I've tried adjusting the guides, tensioning the blade, etc., but even with thin wood, the saw always drifts off course. I have been told that these small hobby bandsaws are not strong enough to get the right level of tension needed, and I've also been told that the Clarke tools in general aren't good quality. So I've decided to replace the saw, but I have a fairly modest budget of around £400 ideally. I can possibly stretch that budget further if I need to, but it will be at the detriment of other tools and materials, so I'd rather not if I can help it.

I know the usual advice is to buy a bigger machine second hand, but I've been watching ebay for months now and there is nothing local coming up in my price range.

I've been looking at a number of 10" machines by respected manufacturers (I think) within my budget, such as these:
- Record Power BS250
- Charnwood B250

Those machines all have fairly weedy motors (around 1/2 HP) and limited depth of cut, but I'm guessing they must be better than the one I've got that I can't get to cut straight.

If I push the budget I could perhaps afford some of the 12" machines with 1 HP motors and sturdier looking build, but I'm not sure whether I really need to. There is also the bigger Clarke machine, with an even bigger 1.5 HP motor, but I'm not sure whether to trust the Clarke brand after the experience with the machine I've got.
- Record Power BS300E
- Charnwood B300
- Clarke CBS350

So my questions:

1. Does anyone have any experience with these machines that they can share?
2. As a bandsaw newb, can anyone offer me any advice on what size/power of machine I need for general luthiery work (cutting shapes out of 2" thick hardwoods, cutting and shaping up to 4" hardwood for necks, etc.) I'd love to be able to make full-size guitar body veneers (12" thick stock), but I'm more than aware that's dreaming at this price point, so will be happy with general cutting out of bodies and some minor resawing of boards and laminates.
3. What thickness of hard woods can I realistically expect to be able to cut with this level of machine?

If anyone has any advice, I'd be very grateful.

Thanks,
Chris

 

[beech1948]

Chris,

I know nothing about Clarks machines but have used several other larger bandsaws.

The first thing to do is to make sure you have a good blade. So call Tuffsaws and have a chat.

Fit new blade and before switching on the machine sit down and watch this video about setting up a bandsaw. It is very good and best practice. It is also done in the right sequence of adjustments.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU&t=1s

If this does not create an improvement you will only be a few £'s out of pocket and can use the investment to sell on the Clark gdget.

If you are looking for a bigger machine then a 12" Record would be OK. Yes its above your budget and maybe too far away but to get whaat you want you will have to travel I think. Record 300/350 will fit in the rear of most hatchbacks.

Good luck.

Al

 

[chris19802]

Thanks Al - I appreciate you taking the time to reply.

I've followed a few similar tutorials on youtube about setting up my current bandsaw, but I haven't yet tried a new (non-clarke) blade. I'll try both of those suggestions to see if I can get the current bandsaw to be at least usable for very small work, but I still think I'd like a bigger machine for more demanding tasks.

Thanks for the suggestions for larger machines as well - I had assumed that these saws wouldn't fit in my car, but if they will then maybe I could widen the search a bit.

Cheers,
Chris

 

[graduate_owner]

I paid £300 for a Startrite 351. Old fashioned but a good, solid beast with about 8" under the blade guides. Would need 2 people to carry it. Not good for dust extraction but I'm working on that.

K

 

[marcros]

Thanks Al - I appreciate you taking the time to reply.

I've followed a few similar tutorials on youtube about setting up my current bandsaw, but I haven't yet tried a new (non-clarke) blade. I'll try both of those suggestions to see if I can get the current bandsaw to be at least usable for very small work, but I still think I'd like a bigger machine for more demanding tasks.

Thanks for the suggestions for larger machines as well - I had assumed that these saws wouldn't fit in my car, but if they will then maybe I could widen the search a bit.

Cheers,
Chris

I think that you will be shocked by the difference that a decent blade will make. the symptoms of your saw are typical of a poor blade.

 

[Keithie]

^ just that (what Marcos said)

I bought a second hand 20++ yr old bandsaw from a very good guy on this forum. The blade was truly awful. Bought a new blade from a very well known retailer. Not much better. Paid the extra couple of quid and let Ian at Tuffsaws specifiy it for me (experience always beats theoretical types like me!). Night & Day. Rough green fir 6x6" ..I can cut a steady 2mm 12" uniform veneer. Good enough for me.

Even if you fear your bandsaw machine is fundamentally really rubbish (I have no idea how good/bad it is) ...maybe spend £10-20 to make sure its not the blade before you pay up for a new machine ?

 

[MikeJhn]

It would have to be a large family hatch back to get the Record 350 in it I only just got one into a BMW 5 series Touring and except for the E class Merc it has the biggest space in the rear, the 300 is smaller, so be careful and take measurements to ensure it will fit before making a long journey.

Mike

 

[Paddy Roxburgh]

New blade, indeed you will eventually need several blades depending on thickness of wood and whether you are cutting straight or curved. I get mine from my local saw doctor and have no complaints, but Tuffsaws are constantly recommended here. I also get mine sharpened regularly and a freshly sharpened blade is always a pleasure.
Paddy

 

[sunnybob]

I had a 250 bandsaw as my first purchase. tried for over a year to make it work properly (including using tuffsaw blades).
Dumped it and bought a 350 (axminster). Still took a bit of adjusting and setting up, but it will now do whatever I want it to, including ripping 180 mm hardwood planks (although the feed rate on that thickness is slower than a lame snail).

 

[MikeJhn]

A 250 what, Charnwood or Record Power?

Mike

 

[sunnybob]

It was badged as a Fox, but that size are almost all made in the same factory.
Honestly, if you are going to be cutting hardwoods, I would recommend something bigger than a 250.

 

[chris19802]

Thanks so much everyone for the advice - Based on everything that's been said in this thread, and a very helpful PM that I was sent, I'm going to take a 2-pronged approach:

1. I'm going to get a blade for the current machine from Tuffsaws to see if I can get it cutting straight.
2. I'm also going to buy a larger saw, and I'm going to go the route of buying a larger used machine and borrow my works van to go and collect it, even if it is halfway across the country - it'll be worth it.

If the new blade sorts the smaller saw then I'll keep it set up for smaller work, tight radius cuts, etc., and Keep the larger one set up with a wider blade for straight cuts or thick stock. If the new blade doesn't sort the smaller machine then I'll just have to use the larger one for everything.

I'm much happier with the way forward now - thanks again for all the advice, and I'll post again in a week or so and let everyone know how it goes.

Cheers,
Chris

 

[sunnybob]

Just remember that whatever size saw youre using, the feed rate will determine whether the blade will drift or not.

Even a brand spanking tuffsaw blade will divert if too much pressure is applied, so let the teeth do their work.

 

[SVB]

Thanks so much everyone for the advice - Based on everything that's been said in this thread, and a very helpful PM that I was sent, I'm going to take a 2-pronged approach:

1. I'm going to get a blade for the current machine from Tuffsaws to see if I can get it cutting straight.
2. I'm also going to buy a larger saw, and I'm going to go the route of buying a larger used machine and borrow my works van to go and collect it, even if it is halfway across the country - it'll be worth it.

If the new blade sorts the smaller saw then I'll keep it set up for smaller work, tight radius cuts, etc., and Keep the larger one set up with a wider blade for straight cuts or thick stock. If the new blade doesn't sort the smaller machine then I'll just have to use the larger one for everything.

I'm much happier with the way forward now - thanks again for all the advice, and I'll post again in a week or so and let everyone know how it goes.

Cheers,
Chris

This is a good plan I think. I am mainly a turner and have to keep a blade for 'straight / flat' work as I have noticed that because I'm mainly rounding things off before they go on the lathe, the blade does wear preferentially on one side an struggle to cut straight after being wood blank abused for a while.

Therefore, a machine / blade to do the fiddly / curvey bits and one to mainly cut thicker stock straight sounds a great plan if you have the space.

S