Bandsaw Blades

[sealover1]

hi I just got a faithfull 14" bandsaw but the blade keeps coming off though if I cut really really slowly sometimes it will stay on for longer either way its a pain.

do you think its the blade being quite old causing this as it don't seem to be on there that tight to me and the tension is as far as it will go. and I cant seem to find a blade for that name can anyone help with that please? does it have to be for that make or can any blade the same length fit not even sure of the length.

cheers

 

[Racers]

Tuffsaws

http://www.tuffsaws.co.uk/

Widely recommend.

Pete

 

[gregmcateer]

+1 times a million!!!

Ian at Tuffsaws was massively helpful when I rang him last wednesday - as a bandsaw newbie with a record RSBS14, I had no idea what I needed. After a few minutes talking to him, I'd ordered the appropriate blade, with the assurance that if I had any problems I should phone him immediately. Friday morning saw the new blade arrive, neatly boxed - all for the princely sum of £15 in total - And it works like the proverbial hot knife - Simples!

 

[Phil Pascoe]

For what they cost order two or three. Nothing more irritating than getting half way through a job and hitting a hidden screw or something. M42s are well worth the money for general work.

 

[sealover1]

cheers guys for the link whats M42s??

 

[Steve Maskery]

An M42 blade is thicker and more heavy duty than standard. It will cope with hitting the odd nail or screw without seriously affecting its performance.
But such a blade requires more force to tension it and on a little 3-wheeler like yours I doubt you will be able to use one successfully.
The blade should not come off if it is tracked properly, and if it is the right tooth-count for the job in hand. How many teeth does it have and how thick is the wood you are trying to cut?

 

[Phil Pascoe]

HSS blades. They outlast ordinary blades by miles. They'll go straight through normal nails and tacks if you do happen not to see them. Sorry, maybe not. I've just seen Steve's post.

 

[Steve Maskery]

The other problem with 3-wheelers is that the blade is bent round a much tighter radius, which in itself shortens the life of the blade. The thinner the blade, the more pliable it is and and so is preferable on small-wheeled machines.

The big advantage of 3-wheelers is that you get a lot more throat for your money.

It's a trade-off.

 

[blackrodd]

On close up of you're first pic, it doesn't look as if you have the back wheel adjusted to retain the blade,when cutting.
It very much looks as if the wheel missesthe blade one side and you are pushing the blade off.
Tension and Adjust the track by hand to run in the centre of the top wheel, adjust the blade rear support wheel so it just misses the back of the blade and set the guides,each side, top and bottom.
Any problems with this, follow this man, he is brilliant!,-- link below

I think you will notice a difference, also get a general purpose blade from Tuffsaws and you should be in bandsaw heaven.
Regards Rodders https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU

 

[sealover1]

thanks for all the advice guys sorry its been a few days been bit busy with stuff. I think I may know what my problem may be after watching that video blackrodd give me a link to. my blade has no bearing or nothing behind the blade to stop it coming off. when you push some wood on the blade it just pushes the blade off the wheels

lest I think that's the problem do they all had a bearing behind the blade mine does seem to have one on the side though.
looking at the video none of the adjusters should be touching so when wood hits my blade it must just push the blade off the wheel

does anyone know who makes this band saw or have there number maybe I could ring them and ask them

 

[Steve Maskery]

The round bearing in that picture is the thrust bearing, and that is the one that should be behind the blade.
Your guide bearings are the black square-section ones, one horizontal and one at 45 degrees. They are blocks, rather than bearings, actually.

 

[sealover1]

no idea why its on the side

 

[Steve Maskery]

Because it is not adjusted properly.
S

 

[sealover1]

cant see anyway it could go on the rear though it would rub in the side of the bearing and not the roller

 

[Steve Maskery]

That's exactly what it's supposed to do!

 

[sealover1]

it looks like its meant to run down the side of the blade not sure if it will go behind it but will look when I get home

 

[blackrodd]

I did mention the rear thrust bearing looked as if it was not in place.
You're guide block needs to swivel so you have a guide each side and the rear thrust bearing behind the blade
when set up you're bandsaw correctly to mr snodgrass's method, it should look something like this,--
Although you're side guides will be at an angle, and not horizontal.
Remembering that all three should just MISS by a couple of thou.
Regards Rodders

http://toolmonger.com/2006/09/12/finds- ... de-guides/

 

[sealover1]

oh right thanks for the pic it seems that the bearing does go behind it then I will get out there and see if I can get it to move and put it back where it should be I,m sure its that making it come off and not the blade

 

[Paul200]

Hopefully your problem is solved now but, just for the record, the Faithfull brand is owned by Toolbank who supply independent dealers and also have an online shop for tools and consumables.

Here's a link with their contact details - http://www.toolbank.com/8690/a/contacttoolbank - may be useful in future.

Cheers

Paul

 

[sealover1]

thanks paul/guys will let you know how I got on