Axminster AWFS18 tension release lever problem

[Stooby]

Hi, I have my new scroll saw and it seems great so far but still on my first project.
I hit an issue with the blade tension release lever. This barely moves, I can lift the whole machine forward by pulling on it. With a jiggle and pull it gave, trapping my hand with some blood, a bruise and colourful language.
It seemed no looser and on inspection it looks like the lever runs 2 wheels across a groove, only 1 side has a white wheel, the over looks like the metal bar.
Does this sound like a fault? If so, typical! I get the saw for the bank holiday only to have to wait till I'm back at work to get it sorted!

 

[Chippygeoff]

There is a wheel missing, no wonder it's a job to release the tension. Have a look in the box it came in. In my experience I am used to bits being adrift and more than once I have searched the box and found the missing bits, don't forget the packaging as well as something like the white wheel could be anywhere. If you can't find it then a call to Axy tomorrow morning should sort it. Their after sales service is the best I have come across but adly you may have to wait awhile before you get a replacement. Last time I had a part missing I had to wait 3 weeks while they got a new part from Taiwan. I feel your frustrations, it's a real pain in the rear.

 

[finneyb]

As Chippygeoff says there should be two wheels.
However, I think you can use it without the quick tensioner as a work around. I would put the quick tensioner in the back position and leave it there adjusting the tension with the tension knob - just takes a bit longer with blade changes but will get you going.

Brian

 

[Stooby]

Thanks both, I will follow all advice - look for the wheel, try the alternative method and call Axy. Thanks.

 

[Stooby]

No sign of the missing wheel but I have finished my first project with the hint about loosening with the rear tension knob.

Sorry if this is a basic question but there is a round plate in the table that should come out. It seems very stuck. Do I just need to apply more force?

 

[finneyb]

It seems very stuck. Do I just need to apply more force?

Yes, piece of wood underneath the insert and a sharp tap with light hammer/mallet etc.

Brian

 

[martinka]

I've read of the two little wheels being replaced by little bearings which makes it easier to move the tension lever. I've been meaning to look for some bearings to try it.

 

[finneyb]

I've read of the two little wheels being replaced by little bearings which makes it easier to move the tension lever. I've been meaning to look for some bearings to try it.

But that would mean metal against metal leading to more wear on the arm - by using the plastic wheels any wear can easily be repaired by replacing the wheels - a lot cheaper than replacing the arm.

Just my 2p

Brian

 

[martinka]

I've read of the two little wheels being replaced by little bearings which makes it easier to move the tension lever. I've been meaning to look for some bearings to try it.

But that would mean metal against metal leading to more wear on the arm - by using the plastic wheels any wear can easily be repaired by replacing the wheels - a lot cheaper than replacing the arm.

Just my 2p

Brian

They would only be rolling, no scraping or cutting action going on. And what about the two steel wedges on the tension rod at the back of the arms? They have a metal point bearing on the aluminium of the arms, but I've not heard of the ends of the any arms dropping off. :wink:

 

[finneyb]

They would only be rolling, no scraping or cutting action going on. And what about the two steel wedges on the tension rod at the back of the arms? They have a metal point bearing on the aluminium of the arms, but I've not heard of the ends of the any arms dropping off. :wink:

Geoff is looking at replacing his wedges outrageous-t79520.html - I suspect the wedges are designed to be softer than the arm so that wear is repaired by replacing the cheaper alternative. Its the same design principle with the quick release tension plastic wheels replace the cheaper part. Bearings will, I am sure, be harder than the arm metal and I suspect will cause wear problems to the arm over time.

Brian

 

[Servo]

I replaced the plastic rollers with 4 bearings OD 7mm ID 4mm and never looked back. You use the same spindle and washers.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-x-Bearings- ... 1c35559d60

I think these are them

 

[finneyb]

Martin & Servo

Hardness of metals - I will bow to superior knowledge I covered this subject about 40 years ago and never knowingly used it since.

There is a standard test for hardness of materials - Brinell - which gives a Brinell number the higher the number the harder the metal. (There are other tests but that just complicates things)

Harder materials wear away softer materials over time and use. I'm thinking of the quick tension release lever and the tension rod wedges where they come into contact with the Aluminium. The aluminium must be a structural grade aluminium eg Grade 7075 if so this has a Brinell number of 150 http://asm.matweb.com/search/SpecificMa ... m=MA7075T6

Anything that contacts the aluminium must have a lower Brinell nos than 150 else they wear the aluminium away over time - new arms will be expensive.

Bog standard Mild steel - which I suspect the wedges are - has a Brinell nos of 120 - and on another thread Geoff's wedges have worn and the Al has not so the theory holds. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brinell_scale

Stainless Steel has a Brinell No about 200 ie harder than Al so replacing the plastic wheels with SS bearings will wear the ridge that the quick release tension lever rides over. http://www.askzn.co.za/tech/tech_grades.htm The plastic wheels are there a for purpose to save wear on the expensive Al arm.

HTH
Brian

 

[martinka]

I replaced the plastic rollers with 4 bearings OD 7mm ID 4mm and never looked back. You use the same spindle and washers.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-x-Bearings- ... 1c35559d60

I think these are them

Those are a bit small going by the dimensions of the rollers on mine, which are 4mm ID x 8mm OD x 8mm long
I found some 4x8x3 which would work, but 4x8x4 would be better - 2 each side.

 

[Servo]

I replaced the plastic rollers with 4 bearings OD 7mm ID 4mm and never looked back. You use the same spindle and washers.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-x-Bearings- ... 1c35559d60

I think these are them

Those are a bit small going by the dimensions of the rollers on mine, which are 4mm ID x 8mm OD x 8mm long
I found some 4x8x3 which would work, but 4x8x4 would be better - 2 each side.

Hi Mart, I've been using the above now for one year, other than alittle grease they have been really great.
I think the sizes you quoted above will work fine. I doubled checked mine after your post and the bearing are flush with the runner. Keep us posted when you upgrade.

edit

I tried 8mm od and they made the quick release level to flick back when sawing. 7mm were fine.
bob

 

[Stooby]

Axy have dispatched a replacement wheel and 2 spares, I just hope I can figure out how to fit them given I have 0% technical know how!

 

[martinka]

As one of the nylon rollers was missing, the washer that holds it in place is most likely missing as well.

The roller is easy to fit. Remove the blade if there's one in, pull up on the flat tension spring under the top arm and you should be able to slide a roller into place. You'll need a new washer to hold it in place, but you could put some tape around the end to stop the roller coming off until you can get a new washer.