Guessed you have watched many folks on the net adjust the tracking on the top wheel,DomD":16s2e8yo said:It seems to move back and forth just like the thicker blade. To clarify I have now tried this with a standard guage 3/8" and a standard guage 3/4". I have a thin guage 3/4" (tuffsaws premium range) that I am yet to test. Are you saying it is easier to track a thicker guage blade?
You stand a very good chance of stripping the threads on the tracking bolt if your blade is tensioned whilst doing this, especially when swapping back and fourth from a wider blade to a narrower one trying to get it spot on.
You should be able to track a narrow blade of any set or gauge in the centre on both wheels,
easily that is.
I cannot say if a thicker gauge or heavier set narrow blade will act much differently, but for
a wider blade, either a thicker set or heavier gauge suits my machine.
As said always suspect the blade no matter the supplier, and you are now faced with the decision of how much your time is worth to you.
It is always nice to have a different blade so that you can be sure to be sure.
Might as well try even just hand tracking that other unfitted 3/4" blade to get a clearer answer.
You don't have to run it/ tension it very much , if you're worried it might be affected by the possible misalignment ...
(possible as these thin blades are more delicate)
So you are (I am) guessing that three blades will all have the same issues.
If not, then disregard below and try another blade.
I'm guessing this is the case that they all share the same issue, since the narrow one is having problems.
Therefore I would
Get the narrow blade running in the centre first by way of either adjustment of the north/south or the full Rikon article ( I tried the Rikon thing without success to get my wide thin gauge blades to work)
Pictures of the jacking bolt locations and whilst you're at it,
take one of the tracking knob with a reference i.e sticking out 3 1/4" from the machine.
I reckon a wider blade might be of use here aswell to line things up with a bit more force,
(I can't remember the exact sequence of adjustments I have done)
as the east/west jacking bolts might be off a bit, or need to be loosened a hair just to get movement
for the north/south adjustment.
The saw still might not like the thin gauge wide blade, but you will be able to run the narrow blade quite well now, which is probably the cleanest cutting blade you can get, in regards to breakout on the bottom of the work.
The wide blade will either work or it wont, and depending on how much your time is worth to you, then you may wonder why you didn't try a wider kerf or gauge blade in the first place.
Edit: Only read that you also have a stout 3/4" blade, so you're good to test and have the benefit of the doubt to trust them.
This blade along with the narrow one you have will make it a half hour job, knock 10 mins off that when you've got the hang of it, compared to if you only had one or two thin gauge blades where you could spend days and still have a unreliable running machine.
I would shoot for the wider blade tracking towards the front of the wheels, and for the narrower blade to have the gullets on centre with the crown.
The only other things that might be a factor is if one of the tires was different, or backwards if the camber isn't identical on them, or if its the tires themselves that have the crowned profile.
I suppose the location that they're glued onto the wheel might be worth checking, or seeing if other folks have the same saw and if this matters, or can be adjusted out via top wheel shaft adjustment.
If a mismatch of profile on the tires is much of a problem you can get back and fourth tracking issues, blade wobbling /rotating so much that it will refuse to cut, blade flutter and the tendency for the blade to walk (that's another use of the thrust guide, not just for performance sakes)
and much groaning from the machine which could possibly warp a blade at high tension, I suppose?
With your narrow blade, hand turning it while it's half tensioned is enough to know if its going to track OK or if adjustments are needed.
Another adjustment is if there's any adjustment on the upper wheel sliding out or back into the cabinet, which is probably the last fiddle if needed at all if it were not in line with the guidepost
(which I presume is non adjustable)
And Edit no.2 #-o
I notice on the Axi catalogue that your saw has two blade speeds...
540 & 840m/min
Presuming this is supposed to be set to the faster setting, I don't know.
Maybe this could be causing trouble.
Maybe this could be worth investigating also.