Does anyone regularly use one of the Axi spiral cutter PT's?
Just wondering if the there was any feedback on them?
Regards
Just wondering if the there was any feedback on them?
Regards
cowfoot":1wqmfxk1 said:I’ve been using the AT107PT with spiral head for just over a month, so here’s some first impressions (not a full review - ask me in a year or so!) -
Solid, heavy, well built.
It’s fairly quiet, barely audible over my chip collector.
Gives a decent finish to timbers my previous machine struggled with (eg European Cherry).
The removable fence arrangement is a poorly designed annoyance, but I guess they can’t copy everything from a Felder machine without eyebrows being raised in Austria...
As I’ve said, ask me in a few months for a proper review - breathless “it’s just been delivered and I love it” don’t count for much, really! I’m slightly concerned that it might be an even more expensive option when all the cutters have to be replaced, which will happen eventually.
ColeyS1":3ujgqd8b said:Slightly off topic but still related to the cutter heads. I fitted some of those heads to the tenoner years ago. It was a vast improvement to the single knife it had before. The only downside was the cut was humpy bumpy.
I was always baffled why it gave such a poor finish but didn't think any more of it. The cutters don't need rotating that often but a few weeks ago I changed them over. I noticed a tiny gap under the front edge of all the cutters, turns out none of them were seated correctly ! The cutters are 14mm square by 2 mm thick. The grooves in the cutter head weren't wide enough for cutters
You'd think when the screw is tightened that it would pull the cutter down parallel, it didn't. Most of them had pulled down slightly wonky, hence the steps in the tenon.
I tried sourcing a slightly narrower cutter but after speaking to various manufacturers found they don't make anything suitable. The cutter blocks were cheapish unbranded Chinese so I suspect they were machined a little small. 30 minutes with a dremel to widen the slots and the finish is much much much better. It's like a different machine ! If there's any interest I'll photograph the modified block notch
I thought I took an after picture of the cut but can't seem to find it.
Coley
Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
fergusmacdonald":15zcgu0s said:Interesting feedback thanks. Did you look at/consider the AT129PT before getting the 107?
cowfoot":3q0bnxvz said:fergusmacdonald":3q0bnxvz said:Interesting feedback thanks. Did you look at/consider the AT129PT before getting the 107?
I can only just fit the smaller model in my workshop!
Peter Sefton":2tbdh6ut said:I have a Felder branded spiral block I use on the spindle moulder for awkward grain like chair back legs, this has been excellent.
custard":1uqdf3yb said:Peter Sefton":1uqdf3yb said:I have a Felder branded spiral block I use on the spindle moulder for awkward grain like chair back legs, this has been excellent.
Peter, does that spiral spindle block have top/bottom flush bearings, or do you just use it with a ring fence?
Peter Sefton":1k8zyu9a said:custard":1k8zyu9a said:Peter Sefton":1k8zyu9a said:I have a Felder branded spiral block I use on the spindle moulder for awkward grain like chair back legs, this has been excellent.
Peter, does that spiral spindle block have top/bottom flush bearings, or do you just use it with a ring fence?
custard I use the spiral block with an 80mm bearing, not used it with a ring yet but I would need to make one for the purpose. I use a bearing or ring fence with a larger 125mm skew rebate block.
Cheers Peter
katellwood":2pgel37h said:custard I use the spiral block with an 80mm bearing, not used it with a ring yet but I would need to make one for the purpose. I use a bearing or ring fence with a larger 125mm skew rebate block.
Cheers Peter
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