Asbestos testing?

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KevM

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I've got a number of ceilings with textured coatings, not full blown swirly Artex but lightly stippled. The house was built mid '70s and I've got no contact with previous owners so can't ask them about when various work was done. Various sources tell me that textured ceiling coverings could contain Asbestos fibres into the '80s and thus ceilings of this vintage should be tested before any work that might create dust .

I've found a few companies that will test samples by post, including this one charging £80 for 5 samples.

First project is a smallish bathroom where I'm considering just having it skimmed and not worrying about it further.

Does anybody have any experience in this area?
 
My daughter has had her artex ceilings skimmed, the builder just coated with PVA before applying the plaster skim. The Artex was left insitu so no dangerous dust produced?

Rod
 
Skimming it is then! I've always viewed plastering as one of the dark arts - has anybody used any of the premixed lightweight skim coats, or is this something best left to a pro?

Any thoughts on ballpark price to skim a 3m x 3m bathroom ceiling?
 
Hi Kev, as above, either slab and skim or bonding coat and skim. Personally I would stick to Thistle Multifinish and avoid premixed like the plague. Apart from being more expensive I don't really think it performs of finishes as well as MF.
 
Dry lining it will save you the cost of skimming. Don't mess about with bathroom ceilings. They may seem unimportant in the greater scheme of things, but you will lie in the bath looking at it thinking why, oh why didn't I do it/have it done properly? Damhikt. :oops:
 
I agree with Prawn_Cracker and glue and skim with Multi Finish. I went on a plastering course and have done loads of glue and skims on my ceilings and a few for friends. It won't make you a plastering pro but skimming board is not too difficult as long as its not too much area and you follow the process. Knock off any highlights, mix 1 to 1 with PVA and brush on. Leave to dry. Do again and two coats of skim while still tacky. Job done.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk
 
KevM":3bhh8biz said:
I've always viewed plastering as one of the dark arts
Actually it's pretty straight forward and easy, assuming you have reasonable hand to eye coordination and can be bothered to read up on the theory.
Like any craft skill you need some practice before taking on any important work. Ceiling are certainly not something to start with.
 
Rhossydd":3r2magxp said:
...it's pretty straight forward and easy, assuming you have reasonable hand to eye coordination and can be bothered to read up on the theory.
Like any craft skill you need some practice before taking on any important work.

+1. A recent trial of a stencilled wall effect showed this. Fortunately my (poor) first tests were indeed on a large sheet of lining paper on the kitchen floor.

BugBear
 
if you intend to sell get it down and out of the house, preferable by a pro, but if you do it yourself then get the gear you need to stay protected. any damage you do to the ceiling (knocking of the high spots, dragging a trowel over it or indeed dropping something through it from the top) will result in fibres if it is asbestos, having watched my dad go due to mesothelioma I dont want it anywhere near any of my family.
 
Myself, I would recommend boarding over the ceiling first with new plasterboard - you don't know how well the previous boarding is done, simply adding another layer of plaster just increases the weight and there is always the possibility of cracks etc. I am not saying this is a definite problem, but we always do things belt and braces and for the price of a couple of plasterboards and an extra half hours work, you can ensure you are plastering on a smooth , flat level surface, that wont crack and will look brand new. Also, if you were doing it yourself, and your plastering is not up to much, you could always tape and joint it with a spatula instead, it will look just as good after some sanding..........this also has the advantage of not disturbing whatever the old covering is, so playing safe as well.

Use moisture resistant plasterboard of course......

Cheers, Mark
 
I stripped some later (1995) artex from a ceiling.
I used a wallpaper steamer and then a power chisel (Bosch PSE 150) with a 2" blade.
Needed to steam each area three times to break the PVA bond witht he plasterboard and then planed off the artex with the power chisel.

There was plenty of moisture about so fibres would not get in the air even of asbestos was present. Need to get it bagged while wet.

Not suggesting you use this approach - that's your decision.

Brian
 
Asbestos is VERY DANGEROUS and will pass though most common air filters and float around for a long time in the air. As long is you don't drill or sand or saw or break it it will be harmless but if you plan to keep yor house for a long time and maybe hand it over to your decendants you should consider having the asbestos properly identified and removed. Boarded over asbestos is in fact a mayor health hazard to everyone who does any repairs or upgrades to the house in the future. Twice as dangerous as visible asbestos because nobody can possibly know that it is there until too late.

Otherwise you could just board it over and pass on the problem to somebody else.......
 
Thanks for all the feedback guys, and obviously I was going to use moisture resistant plasterboard, now that I know it exists...
 
You can safely remove Artex using a wallpaper steamer. If the Artex has been painted then it is more difficult but no more so that stripping wall paper that has been painted.

Artex remains water soluble throughout its life so if the ceiling has not been painted the job is much easier.

You need to make sure it is fully wetted and then there will be no need for any power tool, just a regular paint stripping knife and it should come off easily albeit a bit messy.

Any asbestos in the Artex coating is not dangerous while wet, it is only when sanding or scraping the dry material that you will expose any asbestos fibres. Bag it while wet and then dispose of it as hazardous waste. You need to tell whoever you pass it to for disposal that it contains asbestos. Our local recycling centre will take asbestos materials but you need to phone in advance and make an appointment.

Or you could just leave it alone, it poses no danger unless disturbed in its dry state.

regards

Brian
 
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