Anyone else using Gold Leaf for decorating?

[petercharlesfagg]

Friends,

I am in the process of making new items for a forthcoming exhibition and I thought of using a piece that I had originally designed as a wedding gift for my daughter. The wedding took place but I hadn't finished the item and then they split up!

Anyway, I have been using Gold Leaf for some time as decoration on a small scale, edges, small sections etc.

The dish is 12 inches in diameter in some old 200+ years English Elm from a church pew.

Each attempt meant the stripping of the Gold Leaf , sanding back, resizing (glue) and re-applying of fresh Gold Leaf!!!

The first attempt looked great but had to be sealed somehow so Acrylic spray was used BUT it dulled the golden glow!

The second attempt it was recommended by the Gold suppliers that I use Shellac, I tried but it was even worse!

So the third attempt, as in the image, is untreated and retains that wonderful Gold inner glow.

If you were making this item what would you use to seal the Gold from scratches etc?

If you have never tried using Gold Leaf please do not speculate, I need the expert or tried and tested information?

Warmest regards, Peter.

 

[Spindle]

If you have never tried using Gold Leaf please do not speculate, I need the expert or tried and tested information?

Have you researched oil gilding? - Ooops, speculation

 

[petercharlesfagg]

If you have never tried using Gold Leaf please do not speculate, I need the expert or tried and tested information?

Have you researched oil gilding? - Ooops, speculation

Thankyou for your comment, yes I have, before I spent my precious dosh on the Gold I thoroughly researched all the possibilities.

The company "Wrights of Lymm" who supply my Gold Leaf were extremely helpful in all directions but as stated the shellac they suggested was worse!

If the gilding were up in a roof somewhere it might pass muster but where the dish can be scrutinised close-up the effect was awful!

Regards, Peter.

 

[marcros]

i dont know, but i really really like the piece. The elm and gold looks fantastic.

 

[Mark Hancock]

I've been gilding turned items for years so have some experience.

Not sure exactly what your problem is Peter but you do not need to seal gilding if real gold leaf is used. You only need to seal imitation gold leaf and other metal leaf that tarnish if left unsealed.

 

[Rhossydd]

you do not need to seal gilding if real gold leaf is used.

OK, but how durable is that ? Wouldn't some sort of lacquer/varnish etc make the final item more durable and easy to clean ?

 

[petercharlesfagg]

I've been gilding turned items for years so have some experience.

Not sure exactly what your problem is Peter but you do not need to seal gilding if real gold leaf is used. You only need to seal imitation gold leaf and other metal leaf that tarnish if left unsealed.

Thankyou Mark, it is not so much to seal the item to stop tarnishing because it is 24 carat, but more to give it a kind of barrier to finger wax and the effects of rubbing?

I know I want to touch it every time I see the piece!

Regards, Peter.

 

[AndyT]

I don't have any experience but I do have a copy of 'Practical Woodcarving and Gilding' by Wheeler and Hayward. This is what they have to say on the subject:

"Normally the burnished surfaces of the work needs no protection in the majority of cases. Sometimes however, there is need for surface protection where the work is handled, such as caskets, altar candlesticks etc. A coat of fine silver varnish, or a cellulose lacquer will protect without noticeably affecting the lustre."

 

[petercharlesfagg]

I don't have any experience but I do have a copy of 'Practical Woodcarving and Gilding' by Wheeler and Hayward. This is what they have to say on the subject:

"Normally the burnished surfaces of the work needs no protection in the majority of cases. Sometimes however, there is need for surface protection where the work is handled, such as caskets, altar candlesticks etc. A coat of fine silver varnish, or a cellulose lacquer will protect without noticeably affecting the lustre."

thankyou for the enlightening information, I will bear it in mind!

Regards, Peter.

 

[Bodrighy]

I have used microcrystalline on faux gold leaf, not sure if it would work on real gold. I am a cheapskate so haven't used the real leaf.

Pete

 

[petercharlesfagg]

Further to these replies.

Thankyou everyone for your input, I contacted the company Gold Leaf Supplies and they recommended a wax called "Renaissance Wax" it is applied in thin coats and it hardens almost instantaneously and once dry can be buffed with soft lint free cloth. I discovered an old "T" type under shirt washed and tumble dried was excellent!

The piece is now giving off that lovely lustre that we expect from Gold Leaf and will be going on sale at my next show at the end of June this year.

Regards, Peter.

 

[Bodrighy]

Further to these replies.

Thankyou everyone for your input, I contacted the company Gold Leaf Supplies and they recommended a wax called "Renaissance Wax" it is applied in thin coats and it hardens almost instantaneously and once dry can be buffed with soft lint free cloth. I discovered an old "T" type under shirt washed and tumble dried was excellent!

The piece is now giving off that lovely lustre that we expect from Gold Leaf and will be going on sale at my next show at the end of June this year.

Regards, Peter.

Renaissance wax is microcrystalline. Chestnut do it cheaper and it's the same stuff. Originally made for the British museum to coat pretty much anything from parchment to metal. It is more expensive by weight than ordinary polish but it goes a heck of a long way. Great stuff. Finger print proof as it's melting point is higher than normal waxes.

Pete

 

[petercharlesfagg]

Further to these replies.

Thankyou everyone for your input, I contacted the company Gold Leaf Supplies and they recommended a wax called "Renaissance Wax" it is applied in thin coats and it hardens almost instantaneously and once dry can be buffed with soft lint free cloth. I discovered an old "T" type under shirt washed and tumble dried was excellent!

The piece is now giving off that lovely lustre that we expect from Gold Leaf and will be going on sale at my next show at the end of June this year.

Regards, Peter.

Renaissance wax is microcrystalline. Chestnut do it cheaper and it's the same stuff. Originally made for the British museum to coat pretty much anything from parchment to metal. It is more expensive by weight than ordinary polish but it goes a heck of a long way. Great stuff. Finger print proof as it's melting point is higher than normal waxes.

Pete

Thankyou Peter,

I was unaware that Chestnut supplied such things for gilding!

I already have the microcrystalline wax in my cupboard!

Warmest regards, Peter