Anybody got a Sedgwick Spindle?

[munkypuzel]

Has anybody got one of these to hand that they could check something for me..

Mine is a SM4ii but would be interested also if yours is a different model.

If you grab the shaft without a block on it, can you feel any play as you try to woggle it side to side?

Mine has noticeable play and I have just changed the bearings twice and still have the same problem. I changed them initially for SKF bearings, then because there was still play I purchased some KOYO Japanese bearings like the originals but I still have noticeable play.. Confused

 

[cerdeira]

I've got a 2nd hand sm255t. There shouldn't be any noticeable play.
yours does have a replaceable arbour doesn't it?
Excuse me if i'm asking the obivous, but are you sure the large nut that holds the arbour in place is correctly tightened?

 

[deema]

I too have the SM4ii, again, probably already done this but there is a lock that you must put in when you've set the height of the spindle. If the lock is not on the spindle will move from side to side as there has to be some tolerance to allow the holder of the spindle to move up and down. The lock is located just above the up down handle. Its a Gristal handle that you just tighten up.

 

[munkypuzel]

All tightened up correctly, and the arbour is nicely seated. There is no play between the arbour and spindle..

The play is definately between the spindle shaft and column that it sits in (the column then slides up and down within a nice casting) which only really points to the bearings or the bearing seatings. very strange.

The lock mechanism locks against the 'coloumn' not the shaft inside the column so that is ruled out im afraid.

I have spoken to sedgwick and they cannot shed any light on it either

 

[Melvb]

From an engineering point of view, with angular contact ball or roller bearings (I assume they are one or the other) to remove radial (side to side) play there must be axial preload. Is there a means to adjust this, some nuts or threaded collars that can be rotated and locked, or sometimes Belleville spring washers are used next to one of the bearings to provide the prelaod on assembly.

 

[blackrodd]

Probably a silly thought,and not much help, but did you match the ORIGINAL bearing exactly, numbers and letters exact?
I wondered if they should be a special bearing, as in the crankshaft mains are a special suffix and tighter tolerances.
The correct terminology escapes me, I'm afraid. ("H" TYPE, or similar)
And were the new bearings an interference fit, on the shaft? (shaft in the freezer, bearings in the oven, type fit)
You only need half a thou slack and it's acres 9" away!
Both SKF, and KOYO are excellent bearings, I'd be happy to use either.
Regards Rodders

 

[blackrodd]

From an engineering point of view, with angular contact ball or roller bearings (I assume they are one or the other) to remove radial (side to side) play there must be axial preload. Is there a means to adjust this, some nuts or threaded collars that can be rotated and locked, or sometimes Belleville spring washers are used next to one of the bearings to provide the prelaod on assembly.

Melvb has some wisdom there, Was there a tube and shims between the bearings?
Rodders