Another table saw thread! Panel Saw vs Table Saw

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
@doug Very interesting. Did you also compare the PS315?

I noticed the fixed rip fence has a t slot in the side which could take another fence. How would the measurement scale be updated though? Does it have a functionality to change that so you can still use it with an extra fence?
 
fergusmacdonald":jeg0udct said:
deema":jeg0udct said:
I would definitely look at something like a Wadkin CP32 with sliding table and a scoring blade. Not only will it hold its value, but IMO it will outperform all but the most expensive new saw. You will be able to handle all sheet material, RIP and cross cut and have something that will last many lifetimes. For your budget, you will have your pick and change for a few new blades.

Interesting. Any suggestions on where to find one?

I have a wadkin cp32 I will be putting in the for sale section sometime next week if your interested. We replaced it with a new saw early last year and I've been meaning to sell it.
 
I almost bought the PS315 earlier in the year but had a bad experience in store with an over keen under educated sales person so walked out without buying it, when I got round to ordering it they were out of stock and when it came back in it has gone up about £400!

The PS315 has a deeper cut and the scoring blade would be nice but it is a lot bigger. I am glad I didn't get it really as a friend in the next workshop to me has a big SCM panel saw I can use anytime I need now.

Regarding the scale on the PS250 fence yes it will be out when you add a ripping fence, you will just have to measure from the fence to the blade but looks like it was the same on their other saws. You can turn the ripping fence over if cutting thin stock and this would throw the scale off anyway.

Doug
 
@doug very interesting indeed. Thanks. I probably won't have access to another saw :-( What did you think of the general quality of the machine and the sturdiness of the sliding table? Did it seem rigid and accurate or a bit flimsy? The PS250 that is, and indeed the PS315.
 
murdoch":1pm3hmo8 said:
fergusmacdonald":1pm3hmo8 said:
deema":1pm3hmo8 said:
I would definitely look at something like a Wadkin CP32 with sliding table and a scoring blade. Not only will it hold its value, but IMO it will outperform all but the most expensive new saw. You will be able to handle all sheet material, RIP and cross cut and have something that will last many lifetimes. For your budget, you will have your pick and change for a few new blades.

Interesting. Any suggestions on where to find one?

I have a wadkin cp32 I will be putting in the for sale section sometime next week if your interested. We replaced it with a new saw early last year and I've been meaning to sell it.
I could be. Can you give some more info?
 
fergusmacdonald":21rh4rlu said:
Noticed a couple of differences between these models which are possibly important.

1. Record is direct drive, Axminster is belt drive. Despite that, Record has greater depth of cut on same size blade.
2. Record parallel fence can be adjusted front to back so you can adjust it to only sit fore of the blade. Useful as a stop for crosscutting. Also, it can be fitted in a "high" or "low" fitting so you can more easily get access to thin or small stock.
3. As mentioned elsewhere you can't change the blade on the record without taking the sliding table off or cutting a notch in it. Not sure yet whether you can do that with Axminster.

Interesting that the Record Power is direct drive - I thought that was pretty much only found on site style saws...
 
The build quality of both saws seemed ok but not industrial, should be fine as long as you don't abuse them. Let down by cheap feeling knobs/handles like all the similar imported clones made to a price, although the PS315 did seem a bit better.
It's always frustrating because Axminster never seem to put the machines together properly, there are always a few loose bits so you can't really get a true feel for how solid and smooth they are.
 
Bodgers":3vofdemw said:
I know recommending 'Old iron' is common here (benefits being presumably being the mass of the thing providing low vibration, stability etc. plus consistent accuracy).

But... to someone that has never owned a Tablesaw, is it really wise to recommend this route?

I am seeing plenty of old Wadkins etc. on eBay without riving knifes and safety features of modern saws, without even getting into restoring or have the knowledge to know how a 40+ year old Tablesaw should be cutting etc.

Sent from my MI 3W using Tapatalk

It's what I did, saved me a lot of money really. I went for the hybrid style saw. Rapid PK-100, it's 40 years old actually. It didn't take much work aside from adjustments and cleaning to get it to work though. The hybrid style has worked well for me, I can't really work without a sliding table after this.

What sucks about it the most are the dovetailed runners, makes them basically useless.
 
Back
Top