A quick project & an old clock

[Lord Nibbo]

I knock this up this morning out of bordom of sizing ABW...

Now a few questions about long case clocks. I've got this one, it's old very old, it's made out of oak and the base below the door needs some replacement. Now although I feel I could do it, should I? or should I leave it to a professional restorer? or should I just bin it? :lol:

 

[9fingers]

If you are erring towards binning it, chuck it (gently) in my direction if you like please.
I have a friend who is into clock mechanisms and their restoration and making a longcase clock is on my list of things to do when I retire next April.

Regards

Bob

 

[Paul Chapman]

Nice clock, LN. Unless it's particularly valuable, I'd do it myself. I'm always surprised at the low value of long case clocks that feature on the various antique programmes on the TV. It would cost you more than they are worth to buy the wood in most cases. A restorer would probably charge more than you could get for it.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Lord Nibbo]

If you are erring towards binning it, chuck it (gently) in my direction if you like please.
I have a friend who is into clock mechanisms and their restoration and making a longcase clock is on my list of things to do when I retire next April.

Regards

Bob

I was only joking Swmbo would chop my goolies off if I even suggested the idea :lol:

 

[Lord Nibbo]

Nice clock, LN. Unless it's particularly valuable, I'd do it myself. I'm always surprised at the low value of long case clocks that feature on the various antique programmes on the TV. It would cost you more than they are worth to buy the wood in most cases. A restorer would probably charge more than you could get for it.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

We've never had it valued Paul, swmbo inherited it when her mother died, we suspect it may be over 150 years old maybe even older. Value dosen't come into it though it is purely sentimental value. I suspect the base as been roughly repaired in the past because several panels are plywood the rest being very thin oak. I think I will have a go at it. Anyone got any tips at what to use? i.e. veneer on ply or solid wood and what about the finish or rather matching the colour?

 

[9fingers]

If you are erring towards binning it, chuck it (gently) in my direction if you like please.
I have a friend who is into clock mechanisms and their restoration and making a longcase clock is on my list of things to do when I retire next April.

Regards

Bob

I was only joking Swmbo would chop my goolies off if I even suggested the idea :lol:

I thought the chances of such a thing being released from your Lordships estate would be minimal. If the mechanism needs attention then my pal might still be interested in helping. I've not seen him for quite a while now but if relevant I could establish contact.

Bob

 

[Paul Chapman]

swmbo inherited it when her mother died, we suspect it may be over 150 years old maybe even older.

I think long case clocks are very nice things to keep in the family. That one of yours is very nice in my view - a simple case without too much decoration.

I have one that is also over 100 years old and which belonged to relatives. Had to throw away the case which was riddled with woodworm so hope to make a new case for it some time soon. The original case of mine looked a bit like yours.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Shultzy]

Check out this site, I'm sure he will be able to give you advice.

When renovating I think you need to find out if your clock is all solid wood, veneered on solid, or veneer on ply and repair it in the appropriate combination.

http://www.antiquegrandfatherclocks.com/

 

[Derek Willis.]

My Lord,
The plinth is obviously solid Oak, whilst the boxy base is , I expect veneerd, This should be well withi your reach in restoring. Getting the stain right will want a lot of experimenting with, see my bit in finishing on Ebonising with Van Dyke Crystals, with this you can make as many shades of water based stain as you wish, remembering that it will be vulnerable until sealed once stained. Finish will need to be French Polish, I have also covered that.
Good luck,
Derek.

 

[Gary S]

Just to let you know I've got a big stash of English Oak from a tree that was felled in my back garden a couple of years ago. If you'd like some for your restoration (I guess it was made from English Oak originally!) then let me know and I'd be happy to send you what you need for the cost of postage & packing (assuming you don't need a cubic foot...!).

I just thought it would be nice to replace it with a similar material that it was originally made from - keep the authenticity there. I'm big on sentimentality and authenticity!!

Let me know what you think,

Cheers,

Gary

 

[StarGazer]

LN,

From the photo the clock looks like a 30 hour mechanism wound by the chain (no winding holes in the dial face), this and the quite primitive case and relatively short case (about 6'6" compared to the doorframe) make this originally a cheaper version of a clock. The painted dial makes it no earlier than about 1800.

From the photo the dial appears very worn, many of the numbers around the edge for minutes are missing and I cant see a signature which is unusual as the clock makers were very protective of their trade. Is this lack of visibility due to the reflections in the glass or is it vary faint or actually no signature?

The square face rather than arched dial make this earlier rather than later for a painted face dial, the height indicates a 'cottage' clock....designed for a normal house rather than a grand entrance hallway....some of the tall (7'-8') clocks rather dominate a modern house so I think the smaller clocks work very well in modern houses.

We own a 1760's brass face 30 hour clock and it gives the whole house a heartbeat and we instantly notice if the clock stops running! Of course a 30 hour mechaism usually cant have the hourly chimes stopped but we hardly notice them anymore, indeed my late father complained bitterly the first time he heard them, the next day he was dozing on the sofa next to the clock when it stuck 12.

hop this is useful

StarGazer

 

[Roger]

This will help you date it: Painted Faces

It will also help you find narrow down the Maker and the links from there supply a wealth of information . . . . one of the best sites (and Companies) there is.

The ultimate source! British Horological Institute

and if you do come up with a name . . . Research Clock makers

Use a veneered Ply or MDF for the repair by the way. Best of luck and just ask if you need more information

 

[Lord Nibbo]

Just to let you know I've got a big stash of English Oak from a tree that was felled in my back garden a couple of years ago. If you'd like some for your restoration (I guess it was made from English Oak originally!) then let me know and I'd be happy to send you what you need for the cost of postage & packing (assuming you don't need a cubic foot...!).

I just thought it would be nice to replace it with a similar material that it was originally made from - keep the authenticity there. I'm big on sentimentality and authenticity!!

Let me know what you think,

Cheers,

Gary

So much information from everyone, so thanks to all for all the advice & links.

Gary, so nice of you to offer some oak but I do have a supply very local to me, but thank you again for the offer.

Stargazer, your observations are spot on, when you look very closely you notice how intricate & delicate some of the beadings & molding are, but overall how simple to the eye the overall look is, I would describe it as a very simple build.

Yes the chime is loud as is the "Tick tock" :lol:

 

[woodbloke]

His Lordship wrote:

Swmbo would chop my goolies off if I even suggested the idea

...which poses an interesting dilemma as to the 'tool' :wink: she would choose to do the job:
couple of chops with a 25mm LN chisel and maul or maybe take a LN saw to the job (dovetail or carcase?) or if the job needed to be done in one hit I suppose the blade could be removed from a 50mm smoother (not big enough :lol: )...
Any further thoughts? :lol: :lol: .... - Rob