11/2inchx6TPI Spindle Tap neede?

[paulkane1]

I want to try and build a Vacum Chuck for my S/B,Union Lathe.I will need a Spindle Tap to match the threads on my lathe.Toolpost does not seem to have my size,could someone tell me were I can obtain said Spindle Tap.


Paul

 

[chipmunk]

Southbend is a US company and so I think you'll need a UNC (60 degree) form tap.

Tracy Tools sell them...
http://www.tracytools.com/taps-and-dies/UNC-taps?product_id=941

If your lathe is an old UK lathe like a Jubilee or Graduate them you'll probably need a Whitworth form and in this case it'd be best to contact Tracy by phone and see if they have one.

HTH
Jon

 

[paulkane1]

Southbend is a US company and so I think you'll need a UNC (60 degree) form tap.

Tracy Tools sell them...
http://www.tracytools.com/taps-and-dies/UNC-taps?product_id=941

If your lathe is an old UK lathe like a Jubilee or Graduate them you'll probably need a Whitworth form and in this case it'd be best to contact Tracy by phone and see if they have one.

HTH
Jon

Thanks,Would a Tap made of HSS ,be ok to use,Thers someone selling a set of 3 Taps £120 ,too much for me ,but I have made contact with a company who's selling a second hand Tap for £40 plus £8 delivery too Belfast,I don't know which level of Tap it is,but ,would a Tap in good shape be sufficient to cut into wood,without having to use 2 other Taps to get a good result.

 

[chipmunk]

You really only need one tap - either a taper tap or a plug tap for through holes and in wood a sharp carbon steel tap would probably be the best - The Tracy tools taps are Carbon steel as standard.

A HSS tap will do the job too but it'll give much less tear-out if it's sharp. However, sharpening a tap of that size isn't particularly hard. You ought to be able to just touch it up fairly easily and quickly with a Dremel and a small AlOx grinding wheel - Just concentrate on refreshing the leading edge of teeth in each of the flutes - no need to go mad.

This may be obvious but I'd use either a cross-grain, rather than end-grain, piece of timber for your fittings - the threads will cut better and hold better too. Ideally use something like mock-hogany (sapele) or sycamore that's soft but will hold detail well and the other thing to try would be slightly less thread depth than normal.
A 1 1/2" x 6TPI tap should use a tapping drill of about 1 11/32" or 34mm but an 1 3/8" or 35mm drill will be deep enough and it'll be much easier to cut.

Here is an idea for a tap handle - easy to make on the lathe...

The tap in this case is 1" x 8TPI.

HTH
Jon

 

[paulkane1]

You really only need one tap - either a taper tap or a plug tap for through holes and in wood a sharp carbon steel tap would probably be the best.

A HSS tap will do the job too but it'll give less tear-out if it's sharp. However, sharpening a tap of that size isn't particularly hard. You ought to be able to just touch it up fairly easily and quickly with a Dremel and a small AlOx grinding wheel - Just concentrate on refreshing the leading edge of teeth in each of the flutes.

This may be obvious but I'd use either a cross-grain, rather than end-grain, piece of mock-hogany (sapele) or MDF for your fittings and the other thing to try would be slightly less thread depth than normal.
A 1 1/2" x 6TPI tap should use a tapping drill of about 1 11/32" or 34mm but an 1 3/8" or 35mm drill will be deep enough and it'll be much easier to cut.

HTH
Jon

Thanks Kindly for your help.When you say Tapping Drill ,do you mean a bit to drill out your hole ,slightly less than the Diameter of the 11/2 inch finish thread?Ive never done this before ,all help appreciated?

 

[chipmunk]

Yes, that's what a tapping drill is.

The idea is to cut a hole for the core or unthreaded part of the screw to go through. Then the tap only has to cut the grooves for the thread. The larger this initial hole is the less the tap has to cut grooves into and the easier it'll be to turn. It will also result in less tear-out.

Jon

 

[CHJ]

You might be better off getting an ISO chuck backplate as a foundation for your chuck.

http://www.toolpost.co.uk/pages/Chucks_ ... chuck.html

 

[paulkane1]

You might be better off getting an ISO chuck backplate as a foundation for your chuck.

http://www.toolpost.co.uk/pages/Chucks_ ... chuck.html

Thanks for your help ,At the minute I don't have a Chuck for my Union Lathe,I kept my 1inch x8TPI Chuck ,which serves no purpose.What help can the ISO chuck backplate be in relation to 1x8 TPI chuck.if any? Or would the backplate be of some assistance in relation to making a Vacum Chuck ?

 

[chipmunk]

Chas was suggesting it for a one-off backplate for your vacuum chuck fitting and for that he has a good point because you know it'll fit and there's no need to buy a tap.

If you still want to go this route then here is some more information on taps and wooden threaded fittings FYI...
http://www.davidreedsmith.com/Articles/WoodenFaceplate/WoodenFaceplates.htm

...but if you haven't got a chuck at all what are you expecting a vacuum chuck to do for you?
Most of us have 4-jaw scroll chucks and no vacuum chuck ;-)

HTH
Jon

 

[paulkane1]

Chas was suggesting it for a one-off backplate for your vacuum chuck fitting and for that he has a good point because you know it'll fit and there's no need to buy a tap.

If you still want to go this route then here is some more information on taps and wooden threaded fittings FYI...
http://www.davidreedsmith.com/Articles/WoodenFaceplate/WoodenFaceplates.htm

...but if you haven't got a chuck at all what are you expecting a vacuum chuck to do for you?
Most of us have 4-jaw scroll chucks and no vacuum chuck ;-)

HTH
Jon

I only have my Gradute Lathe,so I'm in the process of buying a suitable threaded chuck ,I was hoping I'd be able to buy some type of Threaded Adjuster to screw into my 1x8TPI Chuck(Ruthland Dakota XT700 Chuck) and save me money When Chas mentioned the Versa Chuck Backplate ,I know what he means Ref, Vacum Chucking,but,as he mentioned the backplate,I was wondering could I screw theVersa Backplate (with suitable threading) onto the back of my XT700 Chuck,thus,converting it to fit my Union Lathe(11/2inch x 6TPI)?and,saving me a lot of money.Either way,once I have a suitable chuck,I would like to make Large Zplatters,thus the Vacum Chucking process.

 

[chipmunk]

Well your options are pretty limited to be honest because the Graduate spindle thread isn't supported by any of the really low cost manufacturers.

Either, you'll need to get a special thread adaptor made for your existing chuck which will be tricky and quite possible expensive. It will also be a sub-optimal solution because it'll move the chuck and workpiece away from the headstock bearings. This is because the adaptor will need a female 1 1/2" x 6TPI thread inside it and then have a male 1" x 8TPI thread which will have to stick out beyond the end of the headstock thread.

or

Buy a chuck with the correct thread or threaded insert which again will not be cheap.
Your options for new chucks are restricted to Axminster, and then only the SK114, Toolpost Versachuck or Sorby Patriot.

Neither's a cheap option I'm afraid.
HTH
Jon

 

[Phil Pascoe]

[*]That SK114 is threaded 1 1/2" x 8. A graduate is 1 1/2" x 6. I zoom in on these things as I have 28 - 80.

Sorry - didn't see the 6s.

 

[CHJ]

That SK114 is threaded 1 1/2" x 8. A graduate is 1 1/2" x 6. I zoom in on these things as I have 28 - 80.

If you have a poolwood also be aware that dependant upon which particular model/date a standard SK114 can't be used as it fowls the headstock. [by the way theTLR02 has 1-1/2" X 6 the T06 and T39 have 1-1/2" X 8]

The text under the axminster chuck image is in error, look at the options list.

It would appear that the design team who first came up with the new design based their assumptions on a range of lathes currently in vogue at the time in their stocks that had protruding spindle noses.
Many older lathes will not allow the use of the chucks indexing system even if the chuck does not actually foul the headstock as it does on my 28-40 .
I believe that certain models now have an extended rear thread collar to accommodate some lathes.

Oh how I wish the Toolpost had a 125mm dia. version of the Versa chuck !! (the extended travel of the jaw carriers is a real bonus on a larger diameter chuck)

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Yes, sorry - I went to the end of the list thinking they would be (approx) in order of size. Much too simple. The TL06L is given as 9, just to be awkward. I was tempted by a Versa Chuck until I was with my friend when he attempted to sort out a problem (which was a manufacturing fault) over the phone, when someone with 40yrs experience of lathes and two very qualified engineers were told they didn't know what they were talking about. He machined the back plate himself in the end. It succeeded in putting me off.

 

[CHJ]

... I was tempted by a Versa Chuck until I was with my friend when he attempted to sort out a problem (which was a manufacturing fault) over the phone, when someone with 40yrs experience of lathes and two very qualified engineers were told they didn't know what they were talking about....

I know the feeling very well, I too have had the condescending spiel first hand, why it never occurs to some folks that the people they are talking to may have a knowledge of the subject or even that some products they are stocking were actually manufactured by the person in front of them.

But as the Versa chuck is currently the only animal that gives the flexibility to cover the range of alternate thread fittings allowing me to quickly swap between various lathe spindles (including my metal lathe) the odd visit when passing to pick one up or get yet another back plate or a set of One Way Cole jaw buttons that are considerably cheaper than the Axy ones has to be contemplated.

 

[gregmcateer]

This thread may help

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/nova-lathe-vacuum-adaptor-t79704-15.html