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First of all, thanks for the positive replies, great to see my post made a little sense! AndyT/Eric - thanks for the input, hopefully our boss is seeing the customer (his friend) this weekend so I can talk him into getting a template of the bulkhead angle. The Legget system looks to be the...

The glazers I used a few years ago would regularly make them to the rebate size, I now give ‘make’ sizes for everything!

Hello again UKW, sorry for the heavy post!I’m after a few ideas from the joiners amongst us. Hopefully I can explain the situation with a few pictures and hopefully get some ideas because I’m unsure what’s the best solution at the minute. The job; I’m making windows for an old chapel converted...

Personally I allow 3/4mm on single and 5/6mm on double glazing. The variable depends on how bang-on-square my door/window is. If the wood moves with tight glass you know what’ll happen! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cascamite is massively temperature dependant in my experience, over tightening is a load of old cobblers as well. As long as you’ve got the pieces all level and alternate your clamps so you don’t bow it you can crank her up. Rough the edges to glue with a sanding block, I always try to biscuit...

Cheers coley, got the bay together this afternoon, lights tomorrow! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Brilliant work coley, brilliant to read and see how it's supposed to be done rather than how I bodge it on the daily! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've been lurking for a long time as I forgot my password but I was inspired by coleys window step by step guide so thought I share a couple of my last jobs. Had a bit of help from a top cnc operator and also a great machinist, I'm happy with these! Current job, bay window with a radius...

Some of the more recent jobs I've done have been Windows with swapped rebates (lights opening out/internally glazed) and so a reversed run/feed would mean you could safely rebate from both ends. However, manually dropping a rebate into a sapele transom is not big or clever. Sent from my...

I've had one of these for years, £8 is a lot cheaper than a £50 diagnostic at Renault and it resets codes as well. Stoga U480 Obd-ii OBDII OBD2 EOBD Diagnostic Code Scanner CAN-Bus Trouble Code Read Diagnose Tester Diagnostic Scanner by Stoga http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B005FOIC3I/r ...

If I'm going to polish or treat a surface I'll use a sanding block and 240. For a thicker external finish I'll random orbital with 240. I can't mentally bring myself to treat an un-sanded surface :D Sent from my Potato using Tapatalk

If you are putting the apron on, I'd put glue blocks or a baton underneath on the inner face to screw to the uprights and top. It won't be seen and it'll help a lot! I'd also house the upright into the top or dowel it to stop it twisting. Sent from my Potato using Tapatalk

I don't think it's been suggested but as a quick way of doing biscuits without the layout for a jointer, try (on a scrap first!) using a 4mm groove cutter in your router freehand or with the fence on for depth to form the hole to push your biscuits into. I've had to do it in desperation a few...

I think the point that's been missed by a few is that it doesn't matter what methods or brands you use, if you get a good finish the method is negligible. I'm a full time bench joiner and I sharpen with an Aldi wetstone and use a variety of odd chisels and never protected anything until I got...

As above, a chap I work with gave me some Camellia Oil the other day, if you trace its roots it was used on samurai swords and the like for many years. Clean your tools and wipe them over with a soaked cotton wool pad. Simple as that! Sent from my Potato using Tapatalk

I'll go with tool maniac on this one, simply for prolonged use in trade. Myself and the majority of chaps in our workshop use the blue/yellow handled Irwin/marples chisels with metal ends. They hold a good edge, don't cost the earth and get pummelled day in, day out, and still come back for...

Has the iroko gone orangey or retained the yellow tinge to it?

Can you post a picture? I'd have to stab at it blind!

For what it's worth I'd glue and screw it all together as best you can and brace it to stop any flex. My bench at work is only 4x3s glued and screwed together with braces and that's ample!

To be honest it looks good as it stands, classic looking unit that remains fairly modern with the sharp edges.