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The test piece hasnt been sanded much really. It's pretty even in colour.

Good point. They were both sourced from the same yard - but I guess that means nothing. I suspect they are both American White oak. I'll try and get some pics together. I lightly sanded the test pieces. On the real thing, I had to sand out a white ring caused by a wet plate being put on it, so...

Esteemed experts, I'm preparing to apply danish oil to a coffee table project. I built the top with an oak frame, holding an oak veneered MDF panel and thought I would try a test on some scrap pieces (it's the first time I've used Danish oil) Whilst the oiled oak piece is looking beautiful...

Thanks for the responses so far. I've got a 3 point plan to reduce the noise Quieter motor Rubber bushings/mounts etc Grease I'm going to have the mechanism enclosed anyway, to keep inquisitive little fingers away - which should protect me from grease flinging - but you're right I hadn't...

I did think of candlewax, but I wanted something that was, for the want of a better word, 'gloopy'. I want it to deaden rattling and vibration rather than lubricate... I think the bolts are steel, with a zinc coating. I've read on here about oak reacting with iron - is that why you asked?

I'm working my way through a coffee table project, with a sliding leaf top. The leaves open automatically, or rather they will when its finished. I just completed the mechanism that will sit below the table top halves and open and close them. Here's a video: http://youtu.be/avnxcPZJ1Cg Its...

Hello everyone. My sliding leaf coffee table project is coming along, to the point I'm making the top. I nipped into a furniture shop to look at finishes and other details and noticed some have some handy slide mechanisms, that allow you to pull one end, and the other end opens at the same...

I don't really care what they are made of.... Looking at Isaac lord though made me realise I was searching for the wrong thing. In the UK they seem to be called table runners Thanks, you just saved me about £50!

I'm looking for a UK distributer of these: http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=769 I've googled til my googler is sore and can only find them available in the US. They are already pretty pricey and I dont want to rub international p&p into the wound. Does anyone know of a place I could...

Just by way of feedback to the forum, I made a couple of mockups, one with regular (0.6mm) thickness veneer, and one that I sanded a thinner portion in the centre. Regular... And sanded thin... That was taken in failry bright daylight, so I think its a winner =D> . I'll post the finished...

The size of the veneer sheet I need is arund 400x600mm and the thin area needs to be around 60x300mm Hopefully the picture makes it clearer - the LEDs are the green area I'm leaning towards sanding down the area - before i cut the hole for the screen

That looks like an interesting product. I can think of lots of uses for that. noticed it comes in a4 though which is too small for me. Lots of good ideas. Thanks! The led lights only form a small part of the table top. I might try a scraper on a small part of the samples I bought and see how...

Shouldnt be a problem for me - I'm planning to sandwich the veneer between a table top (containing the LEDs) and a glass surface, so it can float rather than be glued. Hopefully.

Actually, I did try with some shavings from my bench plane to see if the idea would work at all... I dont have access to a thicknesser, alas.

That's a good idea - then It wont fall apart in my hands when done. And the backing wont make it more opaque as the paper would have done. It's a real product btw, you can buy them all over the place.

I know its usually a symptom of poor quality veneers, but I want some really thin oak. I got some samples (0.6mm I think) but its too thick for my project. I need some that will easily allow light to shine through. This clock should give you an idea of what I'm after.... I saw a reference to...

I ended up using the iron, but going over and over slowly, as there are only small contact points due to the curve. worked out fine though. I liked that I got a 2nd chance to remelt the glue for the bits I had missed. Thanks for the advice everyone.

That's exactly the shape I mean. I'll have a practice run with a small offcut. I did think of using an old soldering iron, with tip removed as a burnisher / iron....

Hi there. I'm making a computer desk/bench with 18mm oak veneered MDF. Lots of how-to videos to get me started with the iron on edge banding, but the desk is L-shaped with a curve rather than a right angle and I'm not sure how to best apply it to the curved section, especially since it's concave...

Gulp :shock: I think I'll steer clear of that. Sounds like a whole new learning curve. Premade it is for me then! I ended up using a jack plane - First time I've used one for anything of that scale - It was really satisfying! Would it be naive to try truing up my own parts, roughed out with a...