Super-thin veneer?

[EightBySix]

I know its usually a symptom of poor quality veneers, but I want some really thin oak. I got some samples (0.6mm I think) but its too thick for my project.
I need some that will easily allow light to shine through. This clock should give you an idea of what I'm after....

I saw a reference to some very thin paper-backed veneer, but it didnt say how thin it was. Does anyone know if < 0.6mm veneers are available?

I guess the alternative is to sand some until I get the thickness I want, but I would worry about it being uneven, or tearing.

Any advice?

 

[Oryxdesign]

Perhaps you could try sticking some clear plastic to the back and scraping it thinner with a cabinet scraper. Are you sure the picture is real and not photoshopped in?

 

[EightBySix]

That's a good idea - then It wont fall apart in my hands when done. And the backing wont make it more opaque as the paper would have done.

It's a real product btw, you can buy them all over the place.

 

[Benchwayze]

I know its usually a symptom of poor quality veneers, but I want some really thin oak. I got some samples (0.6mm I think) but its too thick for my project.
I need some that will easily allow light to shine through. This clock should give you an idea of what I'm after....

I saw a reference to some very thin paper-backed veneer, but it didnt say how thin it was. Does anyone know if < 0.6mm veneers are available?

I guess the alternative is to sand some until I get the thickness I want, but I would worry about it being uneven, or tearing.

Any advice?

With a sharp plane you could make your own. Or would that be just too thin?


http://robcosman.memberlodge.com/

Seriously:

With a properly set up thicknesser, you might be able to produce 1/16th inch veneer, if you stick it to a backing board, so you can to pass it through the thicknesser. You would need a glue that you can remove with water of course. But that might just work. I repeat you would need a sharp and well set up planer.

John

 

[EightBySix]

Actually, I did try with some shavings from my bench plane to see if the idea would work at all...

I dont have access to a thicknesser, alas.

 

[Benchwayze]

Ok...

What I might try is to stick some fairly coarse sandpaper to an MDF base.
Cut a piece of ordinary veneer to a little over size, and then stick that with some kind of reversible glue to a piece of timber. Then try flattening the veneer on the paper, until it is down to size. Shouldn't take that long and it will produce an even sanding if you keep constant pressure.
When you are thereabouts, soak the veneer off and check it for 'translucency'!

I don't know how these clocks work, but I would think that thin veneer could be 'stretched' by applying some kind of finish, to bring them taught.

Best of luck

John

 

[jasonB]

Are you sure that its a real wood veneer and not a foil or printed vinyl as used to wrap kitchen doors etc, or even good old stickyback plastic.

If its thin enough to let the light through I think you may have problems with glue ghosting through and also seeing the edges of the box.

J

 

[studders]

appears to be a normal block of wood, until you plug it in. With a thin layer of real maple wood veneer the LED glows from the inside

Real wood, must be bright LED's

 

[EightBySix]

I think you may have problems with glue ghosting through and also seeing the edges of the box.J

Shouldnt be a problem for me - I'm planning to sandwich the veneer between a table top (containing the LEDs) and a glass surface, so it can float rather than be glued.

Hopefully.

 

[Jonesy]

I've seen printable veneer advertised, I don't know how thick it is but I assume it must be pretty thin to go through a standard inkjet printer:

http://www.craftycomputerpaper.co.uk/.W ... 000023.htm

(BTW - I've not ordered this product or from this company)

[EDIT] I wonder if there's another way to get a similar effect - if you treat veneer with an oil type product, or something which sets, like polyethyleneglycol (PEG) or a wax, would it make it more translucent? Like the effect you get with oil on paper?

 

[EightBySix]

That looks like an interesting product. I can think of lots of uses for that. noticed it comes in a4 though which is too small for me.

Lots of good ideas. Thanks!

The led lights only form a small part of the table top. I might try a scraper on a small part of the samples I bought and see how it goes.

 

[bugbear]

The main problem with planing a piece to that thickness is work holding. Glueing down to a thicker "support piece" is the normal solution, but I don't see how that would work with such thin stock - there's a risk of the glue staining, and removing the workpiece would be "interesting".

And you obviously can't plane it towards a stop ;-)

The way shaker (oval) box makers work is to work under tension, not compression. Since their normal workpiece is actually rather long, they simply clamp down the ends alternately, and work away from the clamped end, with planes, scraper planes, or sandpaper.

Be VERY careful not to catch the stock on the back strokes.

In your case, this would involve either sacrifical work material, or making more stock than would be need for a single clock.

You'll also need to be thoughtful in your timber selection - Ash (with it's wide grain, and "soft bits") would probably not remain intact so thin.

 

[Harbo]

What size are you hoping to make as joining could be an issue too?

Rod

 

[EightBySix]

The size of the veneer sheet I need is arund 400x600mm and the thin area needs to be around 60x300mm

Hopefully the picture makes it clearer - the LEDs are the green area

I'm leaning towards sanding down the area - before i cut the hole for the screen

 

[EightBySix]

Just by way of feedback to the forum, I made a couple of mockups, one with regular (0.6mm) thickness veneer, and one that I sanded a thinner portion in the centre.

Regular...

And sanded thin...

That was taken in failry bright daylight, so I think its a winner =D> . I'll post the finished article when done.