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I'm making an oak dresser atm with a 30mm top and I've part planed it at the start of the job ready for finished dimensions towards the end of the job. We are singing from the same hymn sheet Adam!

Aright, I was copying someone else and being dogmatic. As Custard says, it depends on the circumstance. I rarely part plane it's too time consuming but I do on solid tops, drawers sides etc. I can't see much point in part planing if you are not going to surface plane again after any wood movement.

The answer is yes, you part plane it, stick it, allow for any movement and then face and edge and plane to dimension. Surely that makes sense!

Just to update this. I ended up borrowing a domino jointer from my mate to do his kitchen. It probably reduced the jointing time by two thirds. Got a bit tiring doing it all day but yanking on the handle of a morticer gets tiring to. Certainly worth adding to my arsenal of tools.

The dowel is to replace the spring loaded pin to fill the hole if they take it out so that they don't have to lift the lid every time they open the doors.

Hopefully someone would like to see a commission I've just finished. This came via my box making site although obviously a chest rather than a box. It was made for an Australian chap for his wife, and will be shipped to Australia when he has finished working in the UK. The overall sizes are...

Thanks for everyone for taking the time to reply to my question. I can set up my machines quite quickly to cut mortice and tenons but as Adam says I can't compete with the domino. My issues are (on the 500) lack of depth for the housing in the stiles if the stiles are 60mm and wider (but with...

This is a question mainly for professional kitchen/wardrobe makers. Have you gone over to using a domino jointer for face frames and doors. I have a mortiser and a tenoner so have always used those but a friend of mine who makes mainly kitchens and wardrobes joints everything with a domino...

I've always thought the planer is the most likely machine I might have an accident with because my hands get closer to the blades and imo I would have little control/feel using push sticks wheareas with the table saw, spindle moulder etc I wouldn't dream of not using a push stick. I'd be...

Thanks Glynne but he puts my work to shame!

This chap makes some amazing stuff. Worth a look. http://www.timothycoleman.com/

Thanks for the kind words. The drawer fronts are burr walnut as is the panel in the lid. The client specified the logo with his wife's initials and left the rest of the design up to me. Yes it is quite large as jewellery boxes go.

This is a jewellery box commission I finished just before Christmas if anyone is interested. The 60 in the heart represents a birthday. Phil.

Try running some mdf part way through and fixing somehow then running the work piece over the mdf, usually gives pretty good tear out results.

Next video on Kevin Drake's hand saw. <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sfBvQEih5BE>

Might be of interest to hand tool enthusiasts. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tq8IF5A7ruc

Couldn't agree more with Bob. Push sticks on a table saw great, on a planer, ridiculous idea. When I was at college in California they were big on using pressure board things on the planer but the guard was pushed away as you passed the timber over the blade. Unless you don't use the guard to...

It would be really useful if they could put some adjustment on the feet for uneven ground.

I had SE do a report for a property where I want to remove 2 internal walls just before Christmas. He charged me £450 inc vat. P.

There is a moratorium on small business rates at the moment so you shouldn't be paying anything for rates (which I think is an insidious tax anyway btw). Phil.