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Hi Everyone. I've got to make and fit some MDF wardrobe doors in a fitted wardrobe. They'll be hung inside a frame like a flush cabinet door. Like this. However the door frame will have an architrave around it. If i use inset hinges, will that prevent the edge of the door from catching on...

Hi Ben. If you're intending to make furniture or other bench projects, having some means of ripping down timber is pretty invaluable. A table saw or maybe a bandsaw. A table saw can often be made to do a lot of the things a mitre saw will do. That being said if you're looking to do some more...

I used to have a problem with blades breaking. The weld is always more brittle than the blade as it doesn't get tempered like the steel in the blade. My bandsaw gets a moderate amount of use, often in hardwoods. I switched to buying blades with a guarantee on the weld about 3 years ago. Haven't...

Its pricey. However the cost is offset by not needing to re finish very often. I like it, although its not a pretty grain. Its stable, easy to work and should last a long time. One thing to note about the warranty is the 50 year is for above ground only. No soil contact. 25 years at or below...

The year per inch should be fine, however the issue comes more when moving suddenly from low to high humidity/temperature areas. I've got quite a lot of 3" beech that's been stacked and seasoning for about 6 years in a drying shed. Its moisture content is down to 20% ish but i still like to...

A multi cutter will definitely be the most useful tool on a job like this. Glazing beads and sills are often the first thing to go so its often worth using a durable wood for these even if the window frame is something less durable. If you can, get the timber in the windows/ doors dry before...

Charity shops. You can buy suede jackets/vests that went out of fashion years really cheap. Worth avoiding anything dyed in case it comes into contact with damp or a solvent and stains your work.

Both arguments have their merits, but i definitely prefer the knife slightly narrower than the blade. Having to force wood through the saw is a recipe for disaster. The teeth coming up at the back of the blade wont cause kickback as they will simply cut anything in their way. Its the friction...

Looks good. Like the idea of a "leftovers" project.

Instead of sawdust and glue you can buy a parquet floor gap filling product. Lecol 7500 is one I've used. There's others available. It makes a good colour match. Not as dark as glue, and you can mix it quite thinly for small gaps. The finer your sawdust the better. Or if its a split knot or a...

That should be right but its very easy not to set the fence spot on. I assume you've already started cutting them down and it's too late to start again. Could you set the fence a bit closer to the blade and rip the boards down, then run the wider "offcut" piece through again? Or set the fence...

I'd mushroom the end over as well. On cheap clamps they are just a wedge fit with a bit of glue. Or drill a hole in the head and put a pin through.

Cutting boards are a nice simple project, and a useful one to hone your hand planing/scraping skills. Make good gifts and you should be able to pick up the materials cheap or even free.

As you've only got two to do, laminating another sheet will probably be the quickest and cheapest option. Or as you said gluing some reinforcing strips on. Fibreglassing would do the job but unless you've already got the stuff, or are willing to buy more than you need to get a price saving...

Sorry if i confused the issue. When i said PVA i meant for gluing the joints and leaving as a floating floor, didn't mean to try to stick the floor down with it.

Sounds like it was a faulty belt. I've bought cheap belts before and had one or two break but most of them last fairly well. See if any others break, if they do its probably a bad batch and may be worth just trying to get your money back.

Hi Greg. Even though manufacturers often recommend their engineered oak floors for floating over underfloor heating, this kind of problem is often quite common especially with larger area floors. I'm working on a house that was recently refurbished and apparently the builder who did the floor...

+1 for QS. There are various companies that sell them under their own brand name. Or i'd try and find a second hand Stanley 60 1/2. The sole and the sides were better ground than they are now. The low angle is worth having, because they are smaller its easier to use one handed. As well being...

I normally go for black too. Even on painted windows I'd say it looks best. Personal taste though. As far as i can recall most uPVC windows I've seen have the self coloured aluminium spacers.

Lee valley tools used to make tapes that read the other way round. I had one but it was only in imperial. It is a lot easier to use though. Cant understand why they aren't more common.