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I have the 3S rather than this model. The multipurpose blade leaves a reasonably good finish on timber and the blade speed is reasonably slow but with plenty of torque. I've never manaqed to stall it even at full depth. The slower blade speed also means that the only time you're likely to...

I have the type 1 and get all my blades from Woodford http://*********************** They're significantly cheaper than the DeWalt version, last ages on hardwoods and leave a great finish.

+1 on the Ryobi stuff. I have quite a lot on the tools and the only thing I don't like is the delta sander as it doesn't have any extraction but the drill and impact driver get used quite a bit every day and they're excellent. Worth investing in the 4ah batteries if you're using them a lot.

I have the Charnwood W650 and it's excellent. Had I known when I bought it that I'd end up getting a bandsaw too then I'd have gone for the W619. I don't think that the lower motor power should be a problem for your intended use as my previous table saw was 1.1kw and was fine for 2" oak...

+1 for Tuff Saws Ian was really helpful and the blades go through 8" Oak like it was butter. I will definitely be using Tuff Saws again.

You need to ensure that you have fine threads for screwing into hardwoods and need quality screws if using a drill or impact driver. I've had too many heads shear on Silverline and Dakota screws so only use Trend now. Never had a head shear on them and I've used quite a lot.

I'd only add mechanical ventilation through ceilings in bathrooms and would add an inline heat exchanger through which the input and output stages pass. You shouldn't need any other mechanical ventilation if you have trickle vents in the chimneys.

I don't understand the difference - why do you need a gap if doing it against brick walls, but not for a sloping ceiling? The gap for the wall installation on cavityless external walls is to avoid direct transfer from moisture in the wall. The lath and plaster ceiling already has a void behind...

You shouldn't have any problems with condensation or moisture when putting the thermal board over lath and plaster as long as the lath and plaster isn't get wet from a leaky roof above. For anyone using this on external double brick walls you do need to have an air gap behind by using some...

Whilst you may not be perfectly happy with it, just remember that nobody is ever going to look at it as closely as you do. I really like your design, particularly the way that the thin back of the chair mirrors the lower rails on the table. Well done :D

You can get thermal plasterboard which is basically foam insulation bonded onto plasterboard. It's around 40mm deep and is easier to work with on ceilings than separate insulation and plasterboard. It's probably a better option since it doesn't disturb the existing structure but be sure and...

I have a big old 1830's built house without cavity walls so have been through some of this already. You're on the right lines with the floor and ceiling insulation but be careful if removing lath and plaster ceilings as the laths do provide more structural rigidity than plasterboard does since...

I took a small chunk out of the end of my thumb on the tablesaw a few years back so I always wear good quality Kevlar gloves when using power tools now regardless of the weather. A couple of days ago my hand slipped off the back edge of a piece of wood going over the jointer and my finger hit...

I have a number of the Ryobi 18v li-ion tools including the multitool and they're great bits of kit. They also do the multitool in a mains version. I've used Makita and DeWalt kit in the past but the Ryobi stuff seems to hold up well in everyday use and it costs a lot less. If any of my Ryobi...

Thanks marcros, I have ripped down on the table saw in the past but have found that the heat generated tends to warp the timber in towards the cut from both edges which means that I have to cut 3mm wider than I actually need in order to plane down to the right width. Any idea which size of Inca...

Hi All, I rip down timber into 7-12mm thicknesses fairly regularly (oak, maple, beech), if it's less than 3" thick it gets done on the table saw and anything greater gets done with a hand saw. Unfortunately I think that age is starting to catch up with me as my shoulder was killing the other...