Recent content by SDF

Received my replacement chisel from Matthew today :) so it's kudos to him for his commitment to his customers.

That is a very handsome looking marking knife. I was just wondering about the use of Titebond. Isn't that a water based glue? And won't it tend to make the blade rust inside the handle?

Wizer - I can think of a couple of things which might cause it to crack: too hard a spec brass; oversize machining on the handle and/or oversize tang on the blade. Karl - I ordered them Matthew and just had a reply to my e-mail to him and he's going to replace it for me. :) :)

Well thanks to everyone who contributed. The posts seemed evenly divided between the two types but the pole was 7:1 in favour of the MkII :? In the end I ordered the three smallest of the dovetail chisels, with a view to adding to these with MkIIs as and when... The dovetails arrived...

I didn't know AI had a branch in the orient. :shock: :wink: A Japanese paring chisel is something else I'm pondering but I'm not sure about this hollow back malarky. Steve.

I have a birthday looming and would like some better chisels. I've narrowed it down to AI as these seem the best value for money but I'm having trouble deciding between AI Dovetail and AI MkII (both available from Matthew at WH). Any one have an opinion (silly question) or experience of these...

Paul, Looking at the picture of the rear of the frog again I think it may be possible to effect a repair. Remove the frog from the plane and bond the stud back in using liquid metal or similar and wait for it to set. Then carefully drill a small hole 1mm ish up through the boss on the frog and...

Assuming the adjuster is similar to a regular Stanley Bailey, you did realise that it has a left-handed thread i.e. clockwise to unscrew. IMO a proper repair would cost more than the plane is worth unless you already have the necessary tools or are friendly with someone who does. Otherwise...

It's a bit of a different technique to a plane or chisel see this recent thread. https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/how- ... 39083.html Steve.

Was the router cutter axis perfectly perpendicular to the surface? If not one side cuts a little deeper than the other and leaves a step or scallop depending on the direction of the error. It only needs to be one degree off for a 0.25mm error across a 15mm dia. cutter. Steve.

In one of Roy Underhill's shows online he promotes the use of the scrub plane as a tool for working green wood - wide mouth, deep cut, doesn't clog-up. http://www.pbs.org/woodwrightsshop/video/2900/2906.html (about 10 mins in) Seems to make sense to me. Steve.

I've not delt with them myself but packs of 50 (should last a while) are £6 from here. http://www.scalpelsandblades.co.uk/ Or you could try your local craft or model aircraft,boat,car shop. Steve.

Hello, hope I'm not butting in. This is my first post to the forum but I've been lurking for a little while. Don't knock RC's efforts until you have watched this, it left me speachless: http://www.woodworkingonline.com/2008/0 ... -pedersen/ Steve.