Recent content by RickCarpenter

You could run some screws from the bottom, then back them out after the glue dries.

Back to the stiles... I don't know how fixed you are on your project as is, but making the inner stiles and the muntins out of some darker wood might really set off your piece nicely.

I made my own out of a wooden-handled screwdriver, I have yet to heat treat it tho. I sawed flats onto the handle on it and a jab saw handle so they don't roll off whatever bench or ledge I set them on when out working.

I want some generic cases that I can put each of my nailers in for easy/selective transport to a worksite. They (five) came in one huge case, and I don't want to be "That Guy" hauling that monster around when I may only need one. Kinda looking at the molded aluminum cases, or very sturdy...

Thanks. That's it almost exactly, except that mine is inline with the chuck not at 90 degrees like the pics. What's it called? But now I'm curious about the age. It has no makers' or identifying marks except for being stamped in English "Made in Germany". So pre-WWII maybe?

Thanks, but it's not a Spofford chuck. There are no jaws, it's a friction fit with a thumbscrew as a retainer. I said "1970s+" but the stamp 'Made in Germany' (not 'West Germany') proves that badly inaccurate, it surely has to be later than 1990 because it doesn't look pre-WWII.

I have a German brace that looks made for export, it is stamped "Made in Germany". It doesn't look old at all, no name, wooden wrist handle and pad, maybe 1970s+? I'm curious about the non-ratcheting, non-adjustable, jaw-less chuck though. It is a 1.75 inch long conical sleeve with a rectangular...

I have two old framing squares, nearly 100 years old, the metal is thicker at the join, thinner down the blades. I had to use a ball pein hammer to square them, really getting after it on an iron table. It took a while, but they're square. Then I filed the edges straight because I distorted them...

I like it, good idea, but why not just make a giant square (the L-shaped kind) that rides along the edge of the sheet and clamps to it. You could make an oak or suitable hardwood runner to align the saw, and another runner inset into the bottom of the guide at the cut edge. You may even want to...

I do more reconstruction/repair work for disasters, mission trips, etc than real woodworking, but I've found the value and just great pleasure in using older hand tools whenever possible. Hand tools come into great use on a worksite when electricity is scarce or non-existent, and sometimes they...

Going personally ambidextrous would be easiest. But on the other hand (ha!) if you want an ambi tape measure, the cheapest option would be to use a Sharpie marker and put on left-handed numbers. Beware though, I have copyrighted this idea and get a royalty for every number you apply. Any form of...

Did you see the drill press support deflect? Way too flimsy, though a cordless tablesaw for work on a jobsite might be useful if it had a motor/battery with enough grunt. I do some mission work, and power isn't always really close. Rick

Yes, some certainly is. But there are some clean, uncluttered, almost Stickleyan/Arts&Crafts-y pieces. I'm looking for casework: bookcases, etc. Angus Wilkie shows some nice work in his "Biedermeier" book (1987). Thanks, Rick

Sorry, I'm on the other side of the pond from you. I suggest you look for an industrial supplies catalog. We have a Grainger catalog (www.grainger.com) that has just about everything industrial in it, they ship world-wide but the shipping from US probably would kill you. Rick

What about those overlapping heavy clear plastic strips, like in industrial applications? Though a bother to walk through, they'll allow whatever light from the garage in and will close around your long stock better than doors. Wouldn't be lockable, however. Rick