SIP blade modifications

[Mouse]

I have modified my Sip to make blade changing easier and turn the top clamp into a quick release.
The indexing lever was a straight swap for the allen bolt Cost £7.77 inc.P&P from here. Part numberWDS 8229-2042045 and they do all kinds so may be useful for owners other machines
:http://www.wdsltd.co.uk/products/Machine-Parts/Indexable-Clamping-Levers/WDS-8229-Indexing-Lever-GRP-with-Male-Steel-Insert--1607/?highlight=indexing lever

The cutout in the side panel allows easier access to the lower clamp

 

[Mike Wingate]

Just what I am after for my Hegner. How well does it work? I will get a few anyhow, thanks for posting.

 

[Mouse]

Just what I am after for my Hegner. How well does it work? I will get a few anyhow, thanks for posting.

Total transformation.Being indexable it can be put in any position to suit youself.

 

[Mike Wingate]

Brilliant, have you seen the blade changing vid on youtube.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mp6Ukviwp34
Just got to have that modification.

 

[JohnBailey]

Great stuff Mouse. I bought the handle the day after my saw arrived(finally) Makes a world of difference. Now I only have to figure some good way of replacing the bottom clamp screw.

Another modification worth considering is replacing the table insert. Mine was a 3mm deep insert, but the recess in the table is 4mm.

I was able to get a cheap A4 sheet of 4mm perspex from Ebay, and cut out a new one. Quite pleased with my first non hacking a bit of cheap ply to bits project

http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/ ... directlink

I was surprised at the difference it makes to leave the protective film on the bit of perspex I was cutting. With the film, perfect clean cuts. Without it, I couldn't go more than a few mm without the cut welding shut behind the blade. Which explains the untidy blade slot..

It fits as near flush as makes little difference. Much nicer than shimming the original, and has the added bonus of allowing me to thread in a new blade without removing the insert. For now at least. When it gets covered in sawdust and scratches, who knows.

 

[Mouse]

Hi John,
I made a couple of ply table inserts for mine.I have read somewhere that clear packing tape stops perspex welding up in the cut.

I'm not to bothered about the bottom clamp, cutting out the small piece of the side cover made a big difference to the access with the T bar. I have just changed the side cover screws for wing nuts,not as pretty but more practical.
Worth checking the grub screw on the counterbalance, mine had come loose yesterday producing a knocking noise.

 

[JohnBailey]

Hi John,
I made a couple of ply table inserts for mine.I have read somewhere that clear packing tape stops perspex welding up in the cut.

I was thinking of using ply, but I only have some fairly nasty stuff at the moment. Good enough for hacking to bits, but not good enough to make anything that I would want to stay out of the bin. And too thick anyway.
The perspex was so near the exact thickness I wanted, that it was too good to pass up. It is still a tiny bit proud of the table, but I can rig up an old router bit in a drill press and take a sliver off the bottom, or just let it wear down. For now, I'm pretty happy.

The possibility that I have wanted to try doing something in perspex for ages has nothing to do with it .. At all.. :wink:

I'll look into the tape trick when I next need to cut some perspex. The film on the perspex does seem to do a good job too. Perhaps it uses a similar lubricant. I was really surprised at the difference with the same blade and speed. New rule of thumb. If it hasn't got a covering film, put one on

I'm not to bothered about the bottom clamp, cutting out the small piece of the side cover made a big difference to the access with the T bar. I have just changed the side cover screws for wing nuts,not as pretty but more practical.

I've gone one better there.. I took the plate off entirely, and left it off. No kids with enquiring fingers around, and it's easier to suck the dust out without having to take the side off each time.

Worth checking the grub screw on the counterbalance, mine had come loose yesterday producing a knocking noise.

A wealth of knowledge as usual. I'll keep an eye and ear out for it.

 

[The Weegie]

Hi John,
I made a couple of ply table inserts for mine.I have read somewhere that clear packing tape stops perspex welding up in the cut.

I'm not to bothered about the bottom clamp, cutting out the small piece of the side cover made a big difference to the access with the T bar. I have just changed the side cover screws for wing nuts,not as pretty but more practical.
Worth checking the grub screw on the counterbalance, mine had come loose yesterday producing a knocking noise.

Hi Mouse see when you say worth checking the grub screw. A screw feel out of my saw 2 days ago. Wasn't sure where it came from. Where do I locate the grub screw on the counterbalance.

I have also had problems with the bottom clamp. The T-bar is slipping in the clamp and now it wont tighten :x I have obviously been putting the t bar in the slats at an angle :x Will need to purchase some new screws.

 

[Mouse]

Hi Weegie,

If you turn the counterbalance untill it is upright you will see the screw facing the front of the saw towards the back of the shaft.

I have also had problems with the bottom clamp.

Thats why I made the cutout in the side cover I could see there would be a problem. The Allen bolts are 4mm.It is also a good idea to take a couple of mm off the end of the T bar if there is any damage. Worth changing the washers on both clamps for plain ones. Since doing the mods on mine I have had no problems at all,it is now a nice little saw.

 

[Blacklabradorman]

Hi Mouse,

How did you know the thread for the screw would be right? I can't see any onfo on the threading

Cheers
Sean

 

[Mouse]

Hi Sean,

How did you know the thread for the screw would be right?

I just took a wild guess

And some accurate measurements and thread tables. Double checked against a die

 

[The Weegie]

I managed to get replacement screws for the clamps out of my favourite tool store. 20p a screw =D>

Cut out the side panel as you suggested mouse. cheers

 

[Smyrk]

I know itsnbeen a few years since this thread but thinking of gettin the jet jss 16 and would like to be able to make the clamp a quick change one all searches bring me back to this thread but the pictures arent showin. Any chnace of either pointing me in the right direction or uploadeing some pictures again. Thanks

 

[martinka]

I know itsnbeen a few years since this thread but thinking of gettin the jet jss 16 and would like to be able to make the clamp a quick change one all searches bring me back to this thread but the pictures arent showin. Any chnace of either pointing me in the right direction or uploadeing some pictures again. Thanks

You can see the indexable handle here. http://www.wdsltd.co.uk/product/361...butylene-with-zinc-plated-steel-stem-wds-8229
It's the first one on that page, the M4 one. Should be a direct replacement for the original screw.

Martin.

 

[Smyrk]

cheers mate thats brilliant

 

[Bryan Bennett]

Mike if you are thinking of putting the lever on u tube on your Hegner I would not do so.I thought that would suit me and bought a lever from F/D Mike that he advertised to put on the Hegner Quick Clamp to change the Knob.The lever bends the blade when you tighten if up.That is why I stopped using the lever.I did a modification on the aluminium knob and it works like a lever and it works a treat. :roll:

Bryan

 

[martinka]

Bryan, the first part of this thread is 3.5 years old.

Martin.

 

[Bryan Bennett]

Thanks for that Martin did not realize that I should have gone to SPEC SAVERS.

Bryan :roll: