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By phil.p
#1265657
Poolewood 28 - 40 new bearings, a follow up to 28 40 Lathe head stock rebuild / bearings / belt etc (which for some reason is locked.)
Just in case anyone else is toying with doing the bearings on theirs I thought I'd post a few more pictures and an idea or two.
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The shells were a pig to remove, so using the fire extinguisher theory (if you've got one you'll never need it :D ) I used a chainsaw file to put two small grooves in the casting to allow a drift to be used to start them off if they ever need to come out again. The third pic. is one of the new shells. I have a puller somewhere but I struggle to find it once every fifteen years, so I actually dreamed this up last night - who says the brain doesn't work subconsciously? It worked, though it buckled the coach bolts the bearing was on that tightly. For cost of manufacture I suppose, the flange on the sheaf is machined to the same diameter all the way along, so the bearing needs to pulled the whole way, not just off the part it needs to seat on. A cup of tea is in order, it's nearly cold enough to put a jumper on. The bearing and speed change housing are in front of a heater and the sheaf is in the freezer.
By phil.p
#1265664
The bearing numbers are -
30205 2z 25mm x 52mm x 16.25mm
30206 2z 30mm -x 62mm x 17mm
6010 2z 50mm x 80mm x 16mm
2z or zz - it varies by manufacturer.
I also bought oil seals for the tapered rollers, it seemed daft not to for the cost as there's a fair bit of dust around - be aware if you do use them for the larger one 30mm fits, but for the smaller one it fits on the shaft behind the shoulder the bearing sits against so it's 28mm not 25mm. A 25mm will just about fit, however. Damhikt. :D
I used FAG from BearingsRus, the lot was just under £40.
By phil.p
#1265704
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The spring is easy to compress - put a long set screw or coach bolt with a nut on it into the spindle and do it up, making sure the little pin aligns on the end of the spring. When fully done up put a couple of pieces of wood between it and the body and let the pressure off, then remove the bolt and put the original back. It's a hell spring to compress any other way.
By Jamied
#1265756
I have the same machine, which I love, solid and well made.
My bearings are ok at present , but I appreciate the advice. Good work.
A lot of people would have condemned it to the woodturning place in the sky!