Anyone had much experience with Scheppach tools?

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Pretty sure there is another thread around here about the scheppach cs55, AFAIK, the woodstar is the older version of the cs55, the cs55 having had a few modifications to iron out issues with the Divar 55. I would be interested to hear more about peoples experiences with the cs55 myself.
 
Hi Graham

The Divar was released under the Woodstar brand (owned by NMA agencies). It is alright for the money, but they refined it and released it under the Scheppach brand. I have the Woodstar and its alright for the money. A festool or Mafell it aint, but with careful use and a bit of fettling its a good bit of kit. I've used the Scheppach and it has already been fettled so get that one.

Only my opinion of course.
 
mickthetree":2i78q40b said:
Hi Graham

The Divar was released under the Woodstar brand (owned by NMA agencies). It is alright for the money, but they refined it and released it under the Scheppach brand. I have the Woodstar and its alright for the money. A festool or Mafell it aint, but with careful use and a bit of fettling its a good bit of kit. I've used the Scheppach and it has already been fettled so get that one.

Only my opinion of course.

Thanks Mick. I've found one for £175 seems good value to me.
 
The woodstar or the Schppach? One or two rails?

The tracks on my Woodstar are not square so they dont join together nicely (till I got my file out) and the edges are quite sharp. The Scheppach on the other hand seem well finished.
 
Not sure what they go for now but sounds good value to me.

I would get one with a second rail so you can rip down full size sheets of 8x4, but you can do it with one rail.
 
mickthetree":2schkzh4 said:
Not sure what they go for now but sounds good value to me.

I would get one with a second rail so you can rip down full size sheets of 8x4, but you can do it with one rail.

How, stop and move the rail?
 
Grayorm":n0dl7haw said:
mickthetree":n0dl7haw said:
Not sure what they go for now but sounds good value to me.

I would get one with a second rail so you can rip down full size sheets of 8x4, but you can do it with one rail.

How, stop and move the rail?
I guess in that situation a decent 50" guide clamp would be useful?

While we're on the subject of saws with tracks, has anyone tried any of the progrip guide clamps with their saw/router plates? I was wondering if it was a poor man's version of a plunge saw that worked ok, or just a cruel joke?

http://www.axminster.co.uk/progrip-prog ... rod802863/
 
Stay away from them if ya can To much wobble in the saw cord is to short and a nightmare to canhge the cable have one my self hate using it
 
Nippychippy":1wa5u981 said:
Stay away from them if ya can To much wobble in the saw cord is to short and a nightmare to canhge the cable have one my self hate using it

Too much wobble?
 
When it sits on the track as in a it's not a true 90 cut .wood whisper did a review of the the grizzly saw its the same thing bought mine be for I seen it if only we could turn back time but you learn from mistakes cheap isn't always the answers
 
Nippychippy":17cwxnpa said:
When it sits on the track as in a it's not a true 90 cut .wood whisper did a review of the the grizzly saw its the same thing bought mine be for I seen it if only we could turn back time but you learn from mistakes cheap isn't always the answers

There must be a way to fettle it, or return it!

EDIT: Just watched the video, looks good to me. He didn't actually check the edges for square after saying what an important point it was.
 
It's the nylon tracks it runs on it causes it to move due to the fact the handle is at really bad angle and the spring is to
Strong on it ill try get you photos of what I had to do to get it better . First I striped the machine down to change the cable lenght which was a nightmare to of the screws are hidden the cut about one and a bit links out of the spring the put about ten layers of insulating tape on the side of the saw that doesn't run on the nylon tracks oh and wedge the safety switch open its to far to push up with your thumb and the plunge its a really bad saw I still use a straight edge and a skill saw it saw a bad buy so saving up for a better one other people might have different views
 
Nippychippy":2tgvydmm said:
It's the nylon tracks it runs on it causes it to move due to the fact the handle is at really bad angle and the spring is to
Strong on it ill try get you photos of what I had to do to get it better . First I striped the machine down to change the cable lenght which was a nightmare to of the screws are hidden the cut about one and a bit links out of the spring the put about ten layers of insulating tape on the side of the saw that doesn't run on the nylon tracks oh and wedge the safety switch open its to far to push up with your thumb and the plunge its a really bad saw I still use a straight edge and a skill saw it saw a bad buy so saving up for a better one other people might have different views

Thanks for the info. I'll bear in mind your comments when mine arrives. Does the spring alteration work? I had considered doing that.
 
Look at other company's track s and you can see that the nylon runners they sit on are space far away asposble
I have have the ha 2000 thickness plane that's great don't mean to putting the company down but is a bad saw if your a professional :lol:
 
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