Table Saw Choices

[murphy]

I have this saw and I think it is the best saw out there for a small workshop, you can rip an 8x4 sheet on this if you have the room, also has a sliding table, I am more than happy with it, does everything I need Bosch GTS 10 XC 254mm Table Saw

 

[deema]

No that's not right, I'm afraid. Although a dedicated 16A is nice, it's not essential. There is a brief surge when the motor starts and the continuous current is lower than your domestic kettle.

The fuse, although it looks like a cartridge fuse is just a bit of wire in a ceramic tube and has the same characteristics as a rewireable fuse which means it can take 1.5 times it's rated current for more than 4 hours.

A good, indentured electrician will tell you the same.

Yep, hear you, but I’m sorry, I don’t believe that’s correct. Happy for us to creat a new thread to discuss rather than distract this one, in fact it might be very helpful for everyone. There are a lot of highly qualified electrical and electronic engineers / sparkies on here that have a wealth of knowledge and experience. I’m always keen to learn and understand where I’m misguided.

 

[Mark18PLL]

I can't make up my mind about sliding tables, not sure I'd use it enough to make it worth while which is why I liked the axminster one where I could add it at a later date if I wanted.

What's the max width you can fit?

Max width is 900mm and length 1000mm, if it had a side table that folded away when not in use, the would be fantastic. I see the Bosch was mentioned but although a great size, it goes back the the noisy saw as I dont think they are induction motors.

 

[MikeJhn]

Yep, hear you, but I’m sorry, I don’t believe that’s correct. Happy for us to creat a new thread to discuss rather than distract this one, in fact it might be very helpful for everyone. There are a lot of highly qualified electrical and electronic engineers / sparkies on here that have a wealth of knowledge and experience. I’m always keen to learn and understand where I’m misguided.

It is correct, the majority of these smaller table saws are only at a maximum 2hp that is way under 16amps, its the surge current on starting that may, I repeat may trip an MCB, this can be compensated for by using an MCB that is motor compatible and has a delayed trip time, obviously these need to be RCD protected or use a motor compatible RCBO for the Final Ring Circuit.

2 HP = 2 × 746 W = 1492 W / 230volts = 6.5amps approximately.

 

[TRITON]

I can't make up my mind about sliding tables, not sure I'd use it enough to make it worth while which is why I liked the axminster one where I could add it at a later date if I wanted.

What's the max width you can fit?

Sliding tables on small saws are the dingo's kidneys when it comes to cutting tenons. Or obviously repeated lengths at a precise dimension. Just as long as its set up accurately.

If you are working int he shed by yourself, and given its no production or industrial tool you're after or needing. It would probably be better to save up, flog some stuff on gumtree/ebay and gather together enough to get a Festool saw with sawstop. Safer at least and given most jobs you'll be doing are small projects or even the very occasional production run, its never going to stress the machine.

All well and good having a Wadkin PK in the workshop, but unless its going to be used all day every day, its not doing anything a small saw isnt.

 

[TomGW]

I have a SIP 01332, same as the iTech, and it runs off a regular 13A plug & fuse. It has never blown the fuse or tripped the 16A mcb. When I got it (used) it was already fitted with a 13A plug and, apparently, had never caused any issue with the previous owner either.
I have a separate consumer unit in the garage, with a couple of spare ways, so adding a 16A spur wouldn’t be a problem, but the need hasn’t arisen.

 

[Shavingsnotdust]

I recently purchased an itech 01332. I also considered the TS10 but the helpful salesman at a well-known purveyor of woodoworking machinery advised me that they were rubbish. Unfortunately the 01332 has not been without problems: the side tables which are secured to the main table with 4 bolts 'sag' at the outside edge so the resulting table is not flat. The supplier eventually sent me some metal shims which I'm going to try installing at the bottom edge of the table to take out the sag. It's supplied with a long fence to which a short fecne can be attached. The long fence is not parallel to the blade and there is no provision for adjustment other than more bits of shim. The fence micro-adjuster didn't fit but this is adjustable; the problem is that the instructions are worse than useless so don't tell you how to adjust it. (The instructions appear to have been translated from Chinese to English by a man who speaks neither language). The short fence supplied was badly wrung; got in touch with the supplier who helpfully sent me another one which is slightly different (not sure it's off the same machine) and is even more badly wrung. Altogether not a resounding success......

 

[TomGW]

I recently purchased an itech 01332. I also considered the TS10 but the helpful salesman at a well-known purveyor of woodoworking machinery advised me that they were rubbish. Unfortunately the 01332 has not been without problems: the side tables which are secured to the main table with 4 bolts 'sag' at the outside edge so the resulting table is not flat. The supplier eventually sent me some metal shims which I'm going to try installing at the bottom edge of the table to take out the sag. It's supplied with a long fence to which a short fecne can be attached. The long fence is not parallel to the blade and there is no provision for adjustment other than more bits of shim. The fence micro-adjuster didn't fit but this is adjustable; the problem is that the instructions are worse than useless so don't tell you how to adjust it. (The instructions appear to have been translated from Chinese to English by a man who speaks neither language). The short fence supplied was badly wrung; got in touch with the supplier who helpfully sent me another one which is slightly different (not sure it's off the same machine) and is even more badly wrung. Altogether not a resounding success......

So maybe the extra cost of the SIP version is justified. I bought mine from someone who had it for two years and used it only for a short lived project of building grandfather clocks, so although lightly used it had previously been set up. I replaced the standard fence with a Delta, Biesemeyer style, fence but the original seemed to be fine.

 

[Spectric]

I have just seen its 16 amp, I know nothing about electrics apart from it scares me lol. I have seen these but not sure how safe they are.

They are safe because the fuse in the plug is 13 amps and just havingthe 16 amp connector does not mean you will get 16 amps !

" No that's not right, I'm afraid. Although a dedicated 16A is nice, it's not essential. There is a brief surge when the motor starts and the continuous current is lower than your domestic kettle."

If a machine has a high inrush current then the 16 amp supply is essential, the 13 amp fuse will blow as I found on my P/T but my 12 inch table saw is happy on a 13 amp supply. The only other option is a softstarter but they can cost a few bob.

 

[supertom44]

I've just seen this has been added to Axminster: Axminster Workshop AW254TS Package Deal