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krismusic

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Hi guys, another brain pick if I may. :lol: I have had the council round looking at my workshop and they ain't too happy. I may lose it. :( Anyway, one of the things that I have to address is lighting. I had 2x200watt bulbs wired into one ceiling rose, hanging at each end of the room. 800 watts total. It has been pointed out to me that this is none too safe! Fair point. My question is what to replace them with. I like to have a high level of general illumination in the workshop and ideally, something cheaper to run. Any ideas?
 
Depends what you do and where.
I have fluorescent tubes directly above benches,with an anglepoise lamp for directional lighting (and a 500w halogen floodlight incase I need it)

Andrew
 
I would suggest flourescent tubes Kris, they don't burn leccy excessively and if they have diffusers fitted they are also safer when wielding lenghts of timber, I have 4 in my workshop.(lights, that is) :lol:

Regards,

Rich.
 
PowerTool":1qlkvuih said:
Depends what you do and where.
I have fluorescent tubes directly above benches,with an anglepoise lamp for directional lighting (and a 500w halogen floodlight incase I need it)

Andrew
Isn't there a problem with flourescents making spinning things look stationary? :shock:
 
Supposedly - I have a fluorescent directly above the lathe,and never encountered it;if you think it may be a problem,you can fit high frequency tubes,which will remove the risk.

Andrew
 
PowerTool":1hzm3rzi said:
Supposedly - I have a fluorescent directly above the lathe,and never encountered it;if you think it may be a problem,you can fit high frequency tubes,which will remove the risk.

Andrew
Thats interesting. There are different types of fluorescent?
 
Many

Why did the council even have a reason to turn up? Bloody cheek.
 
I've got 4 twin 5ft tubes in my workshop and the light level is very good. Especially after I clad the roof with t&g pine and painted the walls white.

The only draw back is they buzz a bit for about 10 minutes on a really cold day.

I've never noticed the strobing issue making spinning tools look static, but I must get some diffusers like Rich says coz it's only a matter of time before one gets whacked.

Jon

2166751620_2199dfabd4_b.jpg
 
Sorry I got pre-occupied by the brass neck of the council.

I have 4 5ft florescents and a lamp over the bench. Recently I acquired a couple more fittings and I'm going to re-jig them to get some more light over the TS and Bandsaw.

I'd love to fit daylight bulbs in them but they cost the earth.
 
Isn't there a problem with flourescents making spinning things look stationary?

In theory, yes, but despite having installed many dozens of them it seems to be a problem of the past.
I do remember attempting once to play a league table tennis match in a recently refurbished village hall that had to be abandoned.
The only time any of us saw the ball was on its way past us!

Roy.
 
Ive got 4x5ft single tubes and 2x4ft single tubes provides easily enough light for my workshop (16ftx26ft).

The way i look at the strobe effect is that im the only one working in my workshop and i only use 1 machine at a time so i dont see it as a problem, not that ive noticed it anyway.
 
I recently changed all my florescent tubes for daylight tubes (8 of them) what a difference. Its like the sun is shining in the shop.
As for cutter blocks looking stationary, doesn`t the loud noise from the machine you are standing by give you a clue that the machine is switched on.......................or is it me :lol:
 
krismusic":1913e5xl said:
I have had the council round looking at my workshop and they ain't too happy. I may lose it.

KM,

what is this all about then? Is it a Building Regulations issue, or a Planning Permission issue.........or perhaps noise?

If you have a building without permission you still have the right to apply retrospectively, and there are a number of circumstances in which an illegal building becomes legal just through the passing of time......don't rush out and pull it down, will you!

Mike
 
High Frequency (‘HF’) fluorescent lighting is definitely worth considering.

In a nut shell, HF fittings are inherently more energy efficient, saving something like a quarter to a third (but don’t quote me!) because
a) the high frequency circuitry inside the fitting wastes less electricity as heat, and
b) tubes operated at high frequency emit more light [on a like for like power compared to traditional fluorescent fitting]. HF manufacturers generally aim to keep the light levels similar, so the HF fittings have their power turned down, hence consuming less electricity for the same light output.

Also, HF fittings have quite a few other advantages. As already pointed out, they prevent risk of strobing effects from moving machinery. Some other advantages are, they are flicker free to the eye, quick to start at switch on, operate without any mains hum, extend tube life, give off less heat (fighting the summer heat [ha ha] / air conditioners [again ha ha]).

Of course there is a trade off: they cost more to purchase! In summer 2008, wanting more light in my workshop, I upgraded my traditional fluorescent lighting (from 5 x 5ft singles) to HF fittings, (6 x Twin 5ft HF moisture resistant sealed fittings). I paid a local electrical distributer almost £300. These fittings are ‘moisture resistant’ so nicely sealed from dust, plus the tubes protected from breakage behind a full plastic diffuser.

Yes this is a lot of cash, but I've got 12 tubes fitted, running HF, and the light output is…tremendous!

Finally, if you have made it this far you are probably semi interested…so it’s also worth saying:
- Do not confuse ‘HF’ fittings with LP/LPF/HP/HPF fittings etc. They are not related.
- Screwfix item code 63625 are similar to my HF fittings, but SF is very very very expensive. Try gently haggling with the local electrical distributers, their prices can vary widely, but I always find ‘CEF’ to be consistently best price on cash sales. And check the boxes that they are really HF!
- Finally, if buying tubes, ask for ‘Tri-phosphor’ coated tubes. These dim a lot less with age, which is something I cannot say about myself!
 
I have 5' high frequency fluorescents in my shed. Instant start-up, no hum, no stationary machinery effect, and - best of all they only cost £10.57 from B&Q: Eterna Fluorescent Batten 58W D109 White (H)85mm x (W)1523mm. (EAN:5013845013826)

Be careful though, they don't have diffusers and the lights in B&Q from the same manufacturer with diffusers are NOT HF. New regs mean that HF will become more common, and cheaper so you will see them appearing more and more. As a general rule, if you see a starter in the light, it is not HF.

To the best of my knowledge, the tubes themselves are no different, but on cheap lights like this you will only get "warm" not "daylight" - still a perfectly good light though.

Strictly speaking you should not operate HF and normal fluorescents on the same circuit, and HF fluorescents don't like induction motors on the same circuit. Just how critical this is I don't know, but Eterna told me that as long as the lights and motors are on different breakers it should be OK.


Duncan
 
I've got four 5' fluoro double tubes in the shop, a 4' tube over the bench and severial of those 60W clip on spot jobbies dotted around the place for a localised light source where needed...two of them are over the bench as well...gets quite warm :shock: on the top of the head when doing something close - Rob
 
Jake":ke3o35mu said:
I wouldn't go for daylight tubes. Real daylight is astonishingly bright, and at lesser light levels a daylight colour temp will be very cold.

Sorry Jake, you have lost me there. What do you mean 'very cold'?
 
With regards to the strobing effect from fluorescent lighting:
This did used to be the case, but the technology has altered and this rarely if ever occurs now but if you are using old fittings or a mix of old and new ( like me) then simply align some tubes at right angles to the others and this cancels out the strobing.............
I have seen tablesaw blades "stand still. or even run slowly backwards under such strobing, much the same as wagon wheels on old western films.
and I know someone who got hold of a "non" spinning fan blade on a running engine....not a pretty result.
 
Haven't had time to read all threads but with strobe lighting, if there are a large amount of tubes this will give any machine a non running affect. What they did was change the pulse rate on some of the lights. So say there were 20 strip lights they would split them into batches of 5 with each batch having a different pulse rate. There solved the problem of strobing. As has been mentioned electrics have evolved greatly so this may not be a problem in this day and age.
 
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