workshop insulation

[akirk]

my workshop is in an old (1930s-50s) wooden garage. The floor is concrete, the walls are thin wood and the roof is more modern - osb with felt over it.

not surprisingly, it is cold at this time of year, and even with a heater running (not cheap) the temperature is only raised by 10-12 degrees.

I have been thinking about easy options for insulation… but I don‘t have any expertise in this area… so was wondering what views there might be…

I was thinking that it would be simple to buy some celotex / kinspan (the foil backed insulation sheets), put them up against the roof and then overboard with ply or similar?

ideally I would like to raise the temperature / heat retention as much as possible…

would it still make a noticeable difference if I initially only insulated the roof?

 

[Dibs-h]

I'd insulate the roof - infill between the timber and then over with at least 25mm Kingspan and ply over that, fixing thru into the timber.

The walls - if the thin wood seen, the other side is external, then insulating that fully could introduce other issues, if that is all you do.

If it was me - I'd do the roof (in between & over followed by say 12.5mm ply). Fully fill the sides and at some point afterwards (not like years but can't see a few months hurting) - wrap it externally (membrane), fit roofing batons "over" the wall studs to give you an air gap and finish with cladding (shiplap or whatever you fancy). You just need to detail it properly at the bottom\top of the walls. Obviously guttering etc may need to move.

Floor - you could insulate the floor too: creating a floating floor but may need to think about laying perhaps visqueen or something similar, kingspan and then say 18mm ply. It will obviously raise the floor. Just need to think about the detail of the floor at the doors.

HIH

Dibs

 

[mrpercysnodgrass]

I have 30mm Kingspan on a concrete floor with moisture resistant loft boards over the top, my feet never get cold even when I'm sat doing fiddly stuff all day. On the walls and roof I have 50mm Kingspan. I have a much larger working space than you but with a small woodburner it can be 0º in the morning when I light it within the hour its up to about 12º-14º, I let it die down about 11-12am and the workshop stays at a comfortable temperature for the rest of the afternoon. I would say do your roof first, that is where most of your heat will be lost.

 

[akirk]

Thank you - sounds sensible and easy to add to the roof, less easy at present to add to the walls, but every bit I guess will help

 

[mikej460]

I've used superquilt to dryline each room in our cottage as we've restored them. In your case kingspan or rockwool in between the studs, allowing 25mm gap between the insulation and cladding, then superquilt stapled across your studs then counter batten then OSB3 to ensure a good vapour barrier. If you want a ply wall then staple a vapour barrier over the battens before installing the ply.
https://ybsinsulation.com/timber-frame-wall-application/internal-timber-frame-insulation-solutions/

 

[akirk]

i thought i didnt need a gap if using the better stuff like celotex / kingspan, is it not an all in one panel I can just put in the space and secure in there…?

 

[mikej460]

i thought i didnt need a gap if using the better stuff like celotex / kingspan, is it not an all in one panel I can just put in the space and secure in there…?

The problem isn't the quality of the insulation it's the condensation on the outer facing skin that you need to keep off the inner facing of your cladding. The airgap allows airflow to dry it off. I made a small mistake with the need for osb3 or vapour barrier if you use superquilt, installed as instructed, that will be your vapour barrier

 

[akirk]

I am guessing though that it makes it far more fiddly to install…
why is it that on so many tv house programmes you just see them putting panels in against the wall - have they got the air gaps and vapour barriers in the wall?