WORKSHOP HEATING

[Pete Robinson]

I am currently in the process of building a new workshop and will need to install some sort of heating, I do not want a wood burning stove so must be electric.

I was wondering what everyone else was using and is it effective and economical?

I have been doing some homework on the subject and have found that the most economical electric heaters are ceramic fan heaters!!
Has anyone had any experience with this type of heating???

Any good??

I would be interested to hear all your comments.

Many thanks

Pete

 

[Pete Robinson]

When I say ceramic fan heaters, please do not get confused with wire element fan heaters nor the ceramic halogen heaters which glow red!!

Pete

 

[Shultzy]

I have a 2k oil-filled radiator, seems to do the job. I have 4" of insulation in floor, walls and ceiling so it doesn't take much to warm it up.

 

[Pete Robinson]

As I understand it, oiled filled radiators are not very economical for the simple fact that they are a little bit like storage heaters, they take a lot of energy and time to warm up and then stay hot which is ok until you don't need the heat anymore and then you can't turn it off!!

 

[Woody Alan]

I use oil filled rad but leave it on low all the time. My workshop is pretty well insulated so the even low temp prevents moisture and condensation. If you work in your shop with the heat up during the day you will put moisture into the air (warm air holds more moisture). If you let it cool over night there is a very real possibility that you will get condenstaion on tools. As for efficiency there is not a lot to choose, it's all energy in Watts = energy given out as heat. I have a fan heater to boost on really cold days which is on for a short time until I realise I'm too hot.

Alan

 

[9fingers]

All electric heating is 100% efficient and as pointed out above, the effectiveness depends on what you want from it.
I agree with Alan. Good insulation is important (and you only pay for it once!)
Background heating is safe with an oil filled radiator on a thermostat and boosted when needed with a fan heater. make sure you blow the dust out before using it after along period without use!!
The best rust prevention method i know of is to gently heat the machines. In this way condensation never forms as the machine is warmer than the surrounding air. Proven over 25 years in my workshops and no rust.
Details here https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/view ... hp?t=14547
HTH

Bob

 

[ike]

A radiant heater you could argue, is more 'efficient' in the sense that the heat is only transferred to the objects in range including you. It won't directly heat the air. Although a uniform warm environment is still more comfortable, it requires a lot more energy input. But the radiant heater is best for short working periods IMO unless you need to get something to dry quicker.

Ike

 

[wizer]

Sorry to thread hog, but does the same go for a 'plumbed in' radiator? i.e would it be more economical to buy and electric heater than run a spur off the house heating system.

 

[Woody Alan]

Wizer

If my workshop was closer I would certainly have a wet system but would put it on a seperate zone to keep a low ambient temperature with the ability to tweak it up a little when occupied. My workshop is 100 feet from the house but I do toy with the idea from time to time of running buried insulated pipes small bore to reduce surface heat loss on it's journey. I have even considered running gas supply down there and installing a very small cheap boiler. It's essential to get things insulated though as whatever heat you put in will be wasted.
Unless you are on economy seven, electric is always going to be expensive compared to any other form of heating. Again I have even looked at the eco7 option but the day rate puts the cost up (or did when I last looked)

Alan

 

[ByronBlack]

The option no one has mentioned yet is natural energy sources. You could use a solar panel as a warm-water heating system, or to a power a battery operated background heater on a thermostat.

As a woody, the obvious solution would be a stove, but with the increasing nanny state of smokeless zones this becomes more difficult

I'm personally going to look into a solar setup for mine.

 

[chicken_house_man]

2 hp dust extractor produces most the heat I need with a fan heater to take the chill of in the morning. The workshop is well insulated so it's backed up with an aircon unit for most of the year

 

[ratkinsonuk]

I manged to heat my 20x12 workshop with a 2kw Oil filled radiator.

Like others, I've got 4" insulation in walls, roof, etc, so I can keep the radiator on it's winter (5 degrees) setting and just turn it up when I'm working in there for any length of time.

With the right insulation, the running costs are about 30p-50p per day, which probably works out at around £100 per year when you take into account the summer months.

Rob.

 

[Pete Robinson]

Thanks for all the replies, excuse the pun, but I am warming to the idea of the oil filled radiator on a low setting and maybe a fan heater to boost the temp a little, seems to make a lot of sense.

On the oiled filled radiator note, can anyone suggest a good model as I had one a cheep one a few years ago that ended up at a car boot sale because it was S**T !!!

Cheers all

Pete

 

[9fingers]

Dimplex are the classic brand but even those can develop temperamental thermostats over time. Cheaper brands such as Glen like the one I have at the moment has been good so far.

I tend to buy them cheap from the free ads in the local paper or bulletin boards at work. Freecycle is even cheaper.

For some reason oil filled rads seem to be the sort of thing people buy for a purpose for a few years and then sell on in working condition unlike other electrical items that a only chucked out when they have gone wrong.

My workshop is well insulated and draught free and about 80 cu metres in volume. According to my power meter, a 750 watt oil filled rad is typically on about 1/3 of the time to keep at around 10-12 degrees in winter.

HTH
Bob

 

[ratkinsonuk]

Mine's a Delonghi and cost around £40. I was going to buy a second one, but found that one was enough.

Screwfix have a deal on OFR at the moment :-
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/22311/Hea ... ator-2-0kW

Bob - could you expand on this :-

According to my power meter

I've been wanting to try and work out where my money's going, given the huge hike in costs. Sounds like you've got something to do that?

Rob.

 

[LarryS.]

rob,

Mine's a Delonghi and cost around £40. I was going to buy a second one, but found that one was enough.

Screwfix have a deal on OFR at the moment :-
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/22311/Hea ... ator-2-0kW

Bob - could you expand on this :-

According to my power meter

I've been wanting to try and work out where my money's going, given the huge hike in costs. Sounds like you've got something to do that?

Rob.

rob, B&Q are selling them at the moment, its like an RCD adapter that you plug into the socket and has a little display that tells you how much electric you are using. in my local b&q they were marked at £25, when I paid for it at the till I think it went through for £14.99 (which was a nice surprise)
in my B&q they are on a post by the tills (so not easy to find), its called an 'Airforce Energy Tracker'

 

[HowardM]

I have a Delonghi oil filled rad, it has a timer and frost setting which turns the rad on at 5deg C.

I have it on permanently, on number 1 setting now.

The garage is comfortable to walk in, yet the rad is barely warm to the touch when I walk in.

The (timber) garage has 4 inches of rocwool insulation all round, and all draught gaps plugged tight.

It's transformed my space from bitterly cold and damp, to comfortable and dry. I can walk in and pick up a tool without cringing now.

Howard

 

[9fingers]

Bob - could you expand on this :-

According to my power meter

I've been wanting to try and work out where my money's going, given the huge hike in costs. Sounds like you've got something to do that?

Rob.

I use similar device to Mighty_Genghis.
measures voltage, current, cumulative power and power factor

I'm not totally convinced of their accuracy for reactive loads or items with peaky loads such as computers and compact fluorescent lamps but absolutely fine for resistive loads such as heater and filament lamps.

Bob

 

[chicken_house_man]

I find i need the air con on during the summer to keep it cool.