Working with Ash

[Pond]

Hi all,

I have only used european oak so far in my woodworking, but am looking at making some occasional and coffee tables from Ash, mainly because it is so much cheaper and I think they will look good.

Is ash easy to work with, does it glue OK? I presume it is not as dense as oak, but is it fairly hardwearing? What about movement over time?

I have had a quote for "ash with some colour" at 1/3 of european oak costs!

Thanks in advance

Andy

 

[mickthetree]

Hi Andy

I've made a few bits from Ash and found it lovely to work with. American Ash I think mine is.

It can be prone to move with dramatic effect when prepared, but found as long as it was cut in a balanced manner it behaved well.

My workbench is made of some as well and has stayed very flat and true.

Glued up well but I have only ever used titebond original which I have never had any problems with.

HTH

 

[marcros]

my workbench is also ash in the main. i found it nice to work with. i used a couple of glues on it- everbuild d4 from toolstation and cascamite. you have to be a bit careful with finishes- as with any light coloured timber because oil will yellow it. easily tested on scrap though. I have made a few other small bits from the offcuts too. personally, i tend to bung a bit of shellac on it as a finish, but there are no shortage of choices of finish besides oils.

just look at what the "some colour is" before buying. It sounds like it may have some dark oily streaks in it, which is fine for a workbench (even desirable because it increases density) but may not be so good on a table. that said, at my favoured supplier, ash is about half that of prime oak, and about 3/4 of the price of character oak so there is still a saving to be had.

it is nice to have a change when you have been working with one timber for a while. I was more than glad to use a bit of oak after making the work bench over numerous weeks/months, even though the oak wasnt so nice to work!

 

[AndyT]

I like ash a lot.

I used it for this recent bookcase and for the wardrobe beside it. (Both American ash and finished with Danish oil.)
The very light colour darkens a bit with exposure to light. Planing can be tricky if you get the way of the grain wrong. Good for cutting joints in though.

 

[Pond]

Thanks chaps!

I reckon the grain and finish on that wardrobe looks as good as the oak stuff I have made, and at a third of the cost it's got to be the way to go.

The supplier is Associated Timber in Colsterworth by the way! Going over there next week to have a look around. I haven't bought from them before but were very helpful on the phone!

Andy

 

[mickthetree]

That wardrobe looks fantastic! Lovely grain and design.

 

[Steve Maskery]

Ash is very open grained with a bold figure. Sometime the heart of the tree is very dark, when it is referred to as Olive ash. Because of the wild grain it can be difficult to match boards well. Works well but the grain can be ornery and it's easy to tear it up.
I wouldn't recommend Danish as a finish though. Looks fine when it is new but ages to a rather unpleasant brassy colour (often described as "pee", actually). My lounge furniture was made (and finished) this way and it did not age well. You may well do OK with a water-based lacquer.
S

 

[AndyT]

Sorry to drift off topic, but as you seem to like it, here's a better picture:

It's something I made quite a long time ago when I didn't have tools to do fancy work, so I ordered t&g, ovolo beads and square edge boards from Robbins in Bristol. The carcase is veneered mdf which matches well. The beads are planted on and the corner joints are just dowelled. All glued with Evostik PVA. The overall design imitates a Victorian ash wardrobe on the other side of the room.

I've often read the warning about the pee colour, but not suffered from it - I don't know why! This would have had three coats of Rustin's Danish oil.

 

[Steve Maskery]

I'd say you did very well there, Andy. Good matching for both colour and general figure.

 

[mickthetree]

It looks very similar indeed to an Oak Victorian wardrobe we had till recently.

Good job!

 

[Pond]

Ash is very open grained with a bold figure. Sometime the heart of the tree is very dark, when it is referred to as Olive ash. Because of the wild grain it can be difficult to match boards well. Works well but the grain can be ornery and it's easy to tear it up.
I wouldn't recommend Danish as a finish though. Looks fine when it is new but ages to a rather unpleasant brassy colour (often described as "pee", actually). My lounge furniture was made (and finished) this way and it did not age well. You may well do OK with a water-based lacquer.
S

So are you saying sharp, quality planers are the order of the day and keep an eye on the grain direction ?

I was planning on finishing with hardwax oil, as I love it. It is expensive but gives good protection and seems to resist UV well. I have only used Osmo Polyx but am planning on trying Fiddes as it's cheaper!

 

[andersonec]

Thanks chaps!

I reckon the grain and finish on that wardrobe looks as good as the oak stuff I have made, and at a third of the cost it's got to be the way to go.

The supplier is Associated Timber in Colsterworth by the way! Going over there next week to have a look around. I haven't bought from them before but were very helpful on the phone!

Andy

Andy,

They have quite a lot of stuff but their list can be 'out of date' and they can be pricey, if you don't mind driving a little further (Lincoln) this is the place to go.

http://holmeslincolntimber.co.uk/contact-us

Andy

 

[Pond]

Andy,
Thanks, that is very helpful. I will give them a call next week.

Andy

 

[custard]

One other advantage Ash has over Oak...it doesn't turn your hands black from the tannin!