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boysie39

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I was finishing off a bowl and made a cockup of the finish . this has happened before but I had enough wood to sand from scratch and get things back on track. It was sanding sealer I was useing ,I think I read a post on here advising the use of thinners to remove it .Would there be any other product that would do the job ,such as White Spirit . :?: :oops:
 
It was shellack S/S and I mixed it 50/50 with liqued Pariffin :roll: , what happened was when I applied it i did not allow dry enough and when I tried to buff it left a lot of white streaks on the wood. :oops: :oops:
So to be on the safe side I have just bought a can of cellouse thinners and a can of white spirit :idea: and now await your advice :mrgreen: It's great to be able to pass the blame to someone else if it does not work :evil: :mrgreen:
 
they say to remove it from brushes using methylated spirits and if required, thin it down with meths. The trouble may be that if you use said meths, you are thinning it down so that it sinks into the wood. Although that would probably get rid of it from the surface where it is causing the issue.
 
boysie39":2355g7yk said:
It was shellack S/S and I mixed it 50/50 with liqued Pariffin ....


yuck, can't imagine anything more likely to wreck a finish, not mutually compatible.

You should use methylated spirits to dissolve or thin down shellac, do not use cellulose thinners or white spirit.

Liquid paraffin, basically food safe oil, should be used on bare wood and allowed to soak in, although oils sold as such are usually light grade BPC whereas normal pharmacy grades are a heavier grade and take longer to penetrate and dry off..
 
Chas , the liquid Paraffin I use is bought from a veterinary clinic so it is the real thing ,having said that I decided to try the mixture to see what effect I could get ,now I know :oops: I always used the L/P on its own and let it dry for a week or so and finish with woodwax and now I use microcrystillan .I think I will stay as I am.
Thanks Chas.
 
Eugene, I often use Shellac Sealer/friction polish on open grained Oak, just a personal preference but I like the natural effect of shellac build up in the pores as you burnish it. Must be something to do with all the Oak furniture my farther made which was similarly finished with a french polish.
 
Jonzjob":3pgwnw74 said:
...
I have not used shelaque sanding sealer and hadn't realised that it needed so long drying time!
Usually a matter of minutes, especially if you burnish it, usually says on the container 20mins drying time & often see a 4 hr drying time quoted for a shellac finish on furniture to allow it to harden but as a sealer and burnished on the lathe I have found it needing little more time than cellulose sealer.
 
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