What to do - Chainsaw Problem

[brianhabby]

A friend gave me a Lidl chainsaw some months ago (unused) and it worked fine for cutting up an ash tree that I was given, however, it has now developed a problem.

First thing is the chain has gone dull (not surprising) so I need a new blade or learn to sharpen this one. But the bigger issue has to do with applying tension to the chain. There is a part they call the 'Tensioning Plate' that applies tension as it is turned. It does this by means of a pin that slides in a slotted spiral, tightening it as you turn it. The problem is that this pin has broken off and the part needs replacing at a cost of £15.00.

The part in question appears to be made from some kind of cast alloy and is clearly not up to the job if it only lasts for one tree. So, my question before I purchase this part is:

Should I spend £15.00 fixing a tool that cost less than £60.00 new, knowing that the part is inferior and likely to break again? Or should I buy another chainsaw? If the latter, which one would you recommend for occasional use cutting up logs for wood turning?

regards

Brian

 

[Fitzroy]

You'll get a bunch more info on arbtalk.co.uk, they have a whole forum section on chainsaws.

F.

 

[El Barto]

+1 on Arb Talk, or any Arborist forum really. But sharpening a chainsaw blade is really easy so don't worry too much about that. You can get guides that take the guesswork out of it and they're relatively inexpensive. Something like this by Oregon for example, it'll likely do everything you need.

As for the pin you mention, I'd say try and fix it if you can. If the saw has been working for you then it'd be a shame to buy another one because of something like that. And by fixing it you also get to give the middle finger to our throwaway culture. Any chance you can fabricate your own pin from a stronger material? I'm far from an expert on this stuff so you will indeed probably have more luck on the Arb forums, but the above is what I'd do for what it's worth.

Hope you get it sorted.

 

[pike]

If you give up on fixing and decide to buy another cheapy. Screwfix Titan does the job for me: http://www.screwfix.com/p/titan-ttb355c ... 230v/92771

I've got the sharpening kit as linked above and its fine. Doesn't take long at all.

 

[esox20]

Guessing the pin has been overtightened....it moves the bar forward and back but should not be tight as there is a degree of slack in the chain, and once the desired tension is achieved is locked down...if a diy fix is possible would suffice....as is only a moving pin does not hold bar in place....

 

[El Barto]

Guessing the pin has been overtightened....it moves the bar forward and back but should not be tight as there is a degree of slack in the chain, and once the desired tension is achieved is locked down...if a diy fix is possible would suffice....as is only a moving pin does not hold bar in place....

Very true and hadn't thought of that. Same as chain tensioners on a push bike/motorbike - they make the job easier but the same end can be achieved without a dedicated chain tensioner. Good shout.

 

[duncanh]

Lidl usually have a good warranty - does your friend have the receipt?
If the piece has broken after only one tree I'd say that it isn't for for purpose and you're entitled to a refund or replacement (unlikely as they usually only have limited stock).
Is it worth paying £15 for something that appears to be a bad design that might well break again? Perhaps better saving up and buying a better saw.
DIY fix - the chainsaw is probably the most dangerous tool you have - is it worth the risk of something going wrong with your fix and you taking your leg off? (unlikely of course but you never know. You are wearing safety gear arent you?)

As for sharpening - the manual which came with it should have told you what size file to use as it needs to match the chain you have.
How big was the tree that it blunted you chain -make sure you're not touching the ground or that the tree isn't too dirty.
Sharpening is easy enough to do but it's better to be shown by someone who knows what they're doing.
If you've never sharpened a chain before and don't have anyone close by to help then read through http://www.stihl.co.uk/p/media/download ... ooklet.pdf. It also contains advice on chain tension

 

[Beau]

Guessing the pin has been overtightened....it moves the bar forward and back but should not be tight as there is a degree of slack in the chain, and once the desired tension is achieved is locked down...if a diy fix is possible would suffice....as is only a moving pin does not hold bar in place....

Don't know the saw but the above looks spot on.


Usual process for adjusting chain tension

Slacken the bar nuts
Adjust tension via screw either on side or front until no slack in chain but chain can turn freely on the bar
Tighten bar nuts

Learn to sharpen your chain. It will save you a small fortune

 

[Jasper42]

I'm sure the screwfix chainsaw was down to £39 .95 last week. Think I paid around £50 for mine and for what I use it for well worth the money.

 

[PeteHB]

You are not going to get a chainsaw that functions effectively for £50 or anything near it. It will continually give problems. As for sharpening it's easy, but was the chain lubrication working effectively, heat is the biggest killer. You need to check the chain tension regularly whilst cutting particularly a new chain. The tensioning peg shouldn't have broken if it was correctly set and locked either.
If you are going to be using a chainsaw get a decent one.

 

[memzey]

Chainsaw = scariest tool I own by a country mile. I wouldn't take any chances with an iffy one.

 

[AJB Temple]

Cheap chain saws" chains stretch like mad (and you run out of adjustment); chains blunt quickly; adjustment is slow, so people tend not to do it and run the risk of loose chains. People who buy cheap chain saws often do not spend much if anything on safety gear. Don't let that person be you.

Professionals are safer with a slightly dodgy tool than amateurs. Few of them would use a Lidl chain saw I suggest.

 

[Beau]

Cheap chain saws" chains stretch like mad (and you run out of adjustment); chains blunt quickly; adjustment is slow, so people tend not to do it and run the risk of loose chains. People who buy cheap chain saws often do not spend much if anything on safety gear. Don't let that person be you.

Professionals are safer with a slightly dodgy tool than amateurs. Few of them would use a Lidl chain saw I suggest.

Seem to remember they use Oregon bar and chains so stretch should not be any different from a Pro saw.

 

[NazNomad]

They do use an Oregon bar & chain. If it's stretched that bad I'd suggest lack of oil... and/or technique.

 

[duncanh]

Forgot to say - if it's the electric Lidl saw then I have one and it's performed well for 2 or maybe 3 years. Not the best made saw but it does the job when I don't want to disturb my neighbours or don't want to transport one of the larger petrol saws.
As long as you know its limitations, maintain it properly and know how to use it then it's fine. Oregon bar and chain.

 

[Alexfn]

I bought that Titan one for £35 last week from screwfix before or after vat I can't remember. It's still in the box so not tried it yet.

I got my first chainsaw when I was 14 as a birthday gift. I was really into woodturning at that age. It was a short bar petrol mcculloch and I was handed it without any training. I remember being shocked by the cutting power the first time I used it.

I'm near 34 now and for me an electric chainsaw feels like a toy. But it if you treat it as one it will have your arm off in a split second. I find chainsaws very safe and predictable to use, as with any tool you need to understand safe practice.

I feel more nervous when holding a 2000w router.

Personally I'd drill out where the pin was and put a bolt through it.

A friend of mine had that lidl chainsaw. The oiler on it went on the first use so he dipped it in oil every so often and cut down all the trees he needed to then took it back. Lidl are great with returns.

 

[mike-b-]

If its the green elec model a guy on another forum came up with a fix. Of sorts! A small piece of sq bar tapped with a bolt through as an ajuster. fixed with 2 bolts to the chain bar in front of the body of the saw. Theres a metal piece for the new bolt ajuster to push against there. Means drilling the bar! and losing some length of bar cut. The sq bar was about 15 mm sq and 50 mm long fixed vertically.

Mike

edit i have full ppe for use and i would suggest anybody using one purchases some i know expensive but a new body part isnt available on ebay ppe is!

 

[AJB Temple]

My experience of the Oregan bar and chain on the screwfix electric saw is exactly as I described: chain rapidly stretches (I suspect these are not premium chains...), adjustment requires a screwdriver (fiddly), oiling is not great, you soon run out of adjustment.

Chain saws are potentially extremely dangerous. Having attended a chainsaw course at basic level I have a pretty healthy respect for them. I would not do DIY fixes. In my case I have a petrol Stihl, a battery Stihl (for use in lopping high up - or at least high up for me - this replaced a Greenworks 40V saw) and the Screwfix electric saw that was about £50. The more expensive saws are a great deal better.

The safety gear usually costs more than a cheap saw (blade stop trousers, boots, helmet and face shield, gloves). Accidents don't happen - until they do.

 

[brianhabby]

Thanks for all the replies people, some very helpful info.

I have stripped the part down and replacing the broken pin should be quite straightforward and will have no impact on safety.

I accept that I probably did over tension it which I can see would break the pin. Looking at where it has sheared off from, it appears as though the pin might have been hollow! My replacement won't be.

The oiling system appears to be working fine, it uses the stuff up and the chain is always covered in oil.

I will keep you advised how it goes.

regards

Brian