What saw do i need?

[Maverick81]

best hand saw/type of saw do I need to cut tenon cheeks (down end grain) cleanly/swiftly?

Thanks you.

 

[wizard]

tenon saw

 

[tobytools]

tenon saw

+1

This may be of some help,
http://www.ebay.co.uk/gds/What-are-the- ... 494/g.html

TT

 

[Maverick81]

Well I currently have a relatively new brass backed tenon saw. Nothing spectacular (Spear & Jackson jobbie - 15tpi I think).
Reason I ask is that it seems a rather slow process to cut a 3 or 4 inch tenon shoulder down the grain. It seems more like its sanding the kerf out rather than cutting it.
Looking through the axminster book and there are many types of saw.....I was wondering if any of these would be better. What TPI should I need for this task? All advice welcome. Thanks guys.

 

[Peter Sefton]

A rip cut saw, and I would say 15 TPI is too fine for tenons that size.

 

[wizard]

13 tpi

 

[Graham Orm]

Ideally a 'rip cut' tooth configuration for cutting down the grain and a 'cross cut' for across the grain. You probably have a fine toothed cross cut if it's hard work cutting with the grain.

Have a look on Peter sefton's site.

 

[Peter Sefton]

I am happy to have a chat if you want to give me a call.
Cheers Peter

 

[Cheshirechappie]

A 3" or 4" tenon is quite a large one; more framing or joinery than furniture making. A tenon saw with largish teeth (say 10tpi) and adequate depth between toothline and back would need to be a large one, something like this - http://www.flinn-garlick-saws.co.uk/aca ... ml#SID=528 - which is an investment you'd only want to make if you have a lot of tenons to cut. Finding such a saw secondhand would need patience; 16" tenon saws come up very occasionally, and seem to sell at a premium.

For more occasional work or a one-off project, a panel saw with about 10tpi refiled with rip teeth would be a good option, especially if you could track one down secondhand (an alternative might be one of the more budget Flinn-Garlick ranges, again refiled rip).

 

[Trafalgar]

Well I currently have a relatively new brass backed tenon saw. Nothing spectacular (Spear & Jackson jobbie - 15tpi I think).
Reason I ask is that it seems a rather slow process to cut a 3 or 4 inch tenon shoulder down the grain. It seems more like its sanding the kerf out rather than cutting it.
Looking through the axminster book and there are many types of saw.....I was wondering if any of these would be better. What TPI should I need for this task? All advice welcome. Thanks guys.

A 10 ppi 20" panel saw. One filed crosscut would work just fine. A rip saw in a similar configuration is also known as a 'half rip' saw. You might have luck searching on that term.

 

[Jacob]

Well I currently have a relatively new brass backed tenon saw. Nothing spectacular (Spear & Jackson jobbie - 15tpi I think).
Reason I ask is that it seems a rather slow process to cut a 3 or 4 inch tenon shoulder down the grain. It seems more like its sanding the kerf out rather than cutting it.
Looking through the axminster book and there are many types of saw.....I was wondering if any of these would be better. What TPI should I need for this task? All advice welcome. Thanks guys.

A 10 ppi 20" panel saw. One filed crosscut would work just fine. A rip saw in a similar configuration is also known as a 'half rip' saw. You might have luck searching on that term.

I was about to say something similar.
And be prepared to have to clean up the tenon cheeks - probably easiest with a rebate or shoulder plane but there are other options - long paring chisel being one, Stanley Surform another.

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

A dovetail saw has too many teeth for sawing a tenon, and will work slowly.

Backsaw in 10 or 11 ppi, rip (not cross cut) teeth, and a plate either 14" or 16". This will cut fast.

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[bugbear]

... it seems a rather slow process to cut a 3 or 4 inch tenon shoulder down the grain.

Is that width, depth or both?

What's the size of the tenon in width x depth, and what timber are you working in?

BugBear

 

[Harbo]

I use my bandsaw

Rod

 

[Phil Pascoe]

=D>

 

[matthewwh]

Have you considered a Japanese ryoba?

One side of the blade is for ripping, the other for crosscutting.

 

[jimi43]

Excellent idea Matthew...I wholeheartedly support that idea...

I have had one for years and it has a depth stop in the middle too which I have used occasionally.

Great saws.

Jimi