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Wadkin LQ restoration

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wallace

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Here we go again folks. This is a wadkin LQ recessor. I think this to be one of the most overlooked machines out their. They generally sell for peanuts and are really useful machines which can bore, mill, rout and even be fitted with moulder tooling.





This one dates from 1950



Time to tear it down





Now that is a lead screw





I dont think I will take musch notice of the wiring, why would someone get some 4 core cable and use the earth wire for one of the phases.





I've never done one of these and was really surprised when I undid the bolts that attach the foot lever to the head and the head slid out with a wollop.







To get the rest of the assembly out I needed to tip the casting over.





All big bits removed



Luckily when people do the hammerite clown paint job they dont normally prep things properly which makes it easy to remove the paint with a scraper.



While it was on its side I thought I may as well start the prep.

 

Trevanion

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It would be interesting to see old examples of the work these machines could do, It's hard to find anything about them. I imagine they were probably just the tool for some really awkward things sometimes where great control and precision was needed. I know they were pretty much a must-have thing for all pattern makers.

Any plans on doing up one of the massive Wadkin pattern mills? :p
 

wallace

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I have some literature about them and the stuff they could do, You could even order a rotary table. They were advertised alot for the easy way they could do stair trenching. I think they were the 'poor mans' pattern miller.
I would love to do a big old WX pattern miller but I dont have the space to acomodate one. Even better would be the machine that kicked wadkin off the mechanical woodworker, the precursor to the miller.
 

AJB Temple

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Never heard of one of these, which merely shows my ignorance, but I will be interested to see this progress and get and idea of what it could do.
 

swb58

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Is that a stack of bearings on the head shaft?
Hardcore beefiness if it is.
 

wallace

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Heres a pic of the first version of the LQ, this one dates from around 1910



I have the next machine after this the LP which I will get to one day























I had to get some more paint supplies so whilst their I treat myself to a new spray gun. Works lovely for £24.



I got the main casting prepped and primed.





I thought I'd give this magic stuff a go, it seems to all the rage on youtube



This is how they came out after a nights soak



Then a quick wire wheel, I'm quite impressed. A lot less hassle then electrolysis but quite expensive



Some bits in the blackening solution





Shiny handwheels



I couldnt find a container to put these bits in so tried this

 

AJB Temple

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Those instructions make the machine look really dangerous! Hands very close to a spinning blade. H&S would have a fit these days.
 

Trevanion

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I really like the old Wadkin literature. It would be interesting to see where you would stand with most of those operations these days when it comes to regulations, since it's not technically hand fed does that mean that using this machine like that would still be ok so long as it was guarded sufficiently? I know that you're still allowed to use square blocks on tenoners because it's not a hand fed operation.
 

wallace

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This is the column the table rotates on and also the raising gear





Somewhere in their is a tapered pin that needs removing to allow the shaft and gear to come out



A bit aluminium bodge



The spring that lifts the head back up.



Mmm shiny



The spindle assembly



Bronze pulley, on the inside is a square hole which takes the drive to the spindle



















Now to pick the brains of the learnid, This is the main spindle which has an insert to hold a chuck. The insert is morse 4 taper and is stuck. Normally if its stuck I would just stick some big stilsons on and a long pipe and that would pop it out. Not with this though. I've tried heat with no success. I also tried making some wedges.

 

Trevanion

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Sure there's absolutely nothing extra holding that insert in like a cap screw down the bore or something from above? Wouldn't be the first time I've encountered something like that.

This is probably going to be the best looking LQ on the planet, I've never seen one that's been tarted up before.
 

wallace

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No its just a big grub screw that acts on a flat bit on the insert. I suppose even if it had some kind of locking solution on the taper the heat would of dealt with it.
Can you get proper wedges to remove big tapers. I've looked around and all I could find were the ones for Jacobs chucks. This needs to be around 36mm gap
 

Trevanion

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wallace":3suntoab said:
Can you get proper wedges to remove big tapers. I've looked around and all I could find were the ones for Jacobs chucks. This needs to be around 36mm gap
I'd be tempted to grind down an old spanner or something, knock it in and use the spanners length as leverage to try and pop the sucker out.
 

wallace

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A bit more done







To align the table





Adjustable strip for taking up wear



primer then more filler



The main table





The top is in pretty good shape with very little abuse



After initial cleaning with Stanley blade and wire wheel, I will give it its final finish when its installed





The morse taper adapter is not going well. I broke my engineers vise trying to remove it. I tried drilling all the way through the adapter where the grub screw was, inserted a rod and then using masonary chisels which have long tapers. Still no joy.
On a lighter side Mr&Mrs Black bird are back for the 4th year. This nest wasn't there the night before and then at 7:30 am they'd built it. The chicks make a mess pooping up the wall but its worth it.



 

TFrench

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Try heating the outer to good and hot, then try one of those "cold shock" bolt loosening aerosols - if you can rapidly cool the adapter it might crack the "grab" between the tapers.
 

wallace

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Bit more done











Its pretty nice to have a few hold downs



And a bunch of scary stuff



 

Ttrees

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I really love these restoration threads Wallace :D
A few questions if I may...
Recently I bought the Isopon zinc 182 on discount in Ireland, quite a bit cheaper than Lowe's rust primer.
I noticed you primed and painted your motor, and I'm guessing this is what you used.
I'm guessing your old Wadkin motor is quite efficient at heat dissipation, compared to modern motors.

Does one need special primer and paint for a motor?

I'm doing a brushed paint job...so do I need to think about thinning it ?
I have a litre of Baufix thinner for the primer and paint, if its a good idea to do so.

Still haven't bought the Claas seed green enamel paint, that I want yet...
There seems to be big variables on the shades from searching, and I'm wondering if thinning will change the shade.

Thanks to all who can give some insight
Tom
 

wallace

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Hi Tom, I really like the 182 stuff. You wont need a different primer for a motor, I've seen them daubed in filler. I would of thought modern motors are more efficient than old ones. modern ones have fans old ones usually don't.
You could try it unthinned, it flattens really nice with some wet and dry.
Thinning your top coat wont affect its shade
 

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