I have a clamp and guide that the router runs along very smoothly and gives a better finish than my table saw on sheet material .I was thinking of selling my table saw to just use the router . Whats the forums view ?
Using a router instead of a saw
- Thread starter JFC
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DaveL
Established Member
Jason,
I doubt that you can cut at the same feed rate with the router compared to the saw? you will also be cutting a much wider slot, I assume your saw has a standard 1/8" kerf, and guess that you will need to use at least a 1/4" router cutter.
Its a good idea, how will you quickly reduce large sheets to rough sized blanks?
Do you not use the table saw to rip solid timber to size?
Sorry well looks a bit negative, but I don't know how you 'normally' work. :roll:
I doubt that you can cut at the same feed rate with the router compared to the saw? you will also be cutting a much wider slot, I assume your saw has a standard 1/8" kerf, and guess that you will need to use at least a 1/4" router cutter.
Its a good idea, how will you quickly reduce large sheets to rough sized blanks?
Do you not use the table saw to rip solid timber to size?
Sorry well looks a bit negative, but I don't know how you 'normally' work. :roll:
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Anonymous
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Sound bonkers to me :shock:
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davy_owen_88
Established Member
It's possible, but you'll be wasting a fair bit of material and when cutting thick timber you'll still need make numerous passes to get to full depth before turning the piece over and starting again from the other side.
Personally I dont think the advantages come anywhere close to outweighing the disadvantages. The extra dust, noise and set up times alone would be enough to put me off.
Personally I dont think the advantages come anywhere close to outweighing the disadvantages. The extra dust, noise and set up times alone would be enough to put me off.
Seeems a bit like the way they do it in nest based manufacture - only they do it with CNC routers. Were yo thinking about spiral cutters? Also what depth of cut do you reckon you'll get - Trend now do 100mm long cutters, designed for lock mortising in multiple passes
Scrit
Scrit
Lee Brubaker
Established Member
Sounds to me like JFC had his mind made up prior to posting. If your going to muck around & have the clamps I would cut the sheet goods about 1/8" oversize with a skill saw, then trim to size with the router. Nor would I use a spiral bit for the final trim. Spiral bits will fur the edge of the cut. A slightly curved edging bit which slices instead of chops will give the best finish on plywood sheet goods.
Lee
Lee
JFC
You say 1/4" bits are cheaper than saw blades but given the fact that when routing MFC a router bit will have lost its edge after about 8ft (based on cutting worktops at double the thickness) you will get through a lot of router bits compared to saw blades.
Also time will be a cost factor, think how quickly you can rip say ten strips of board 100x1220 on a saw then compare that to having to hold down the board, mark it out, set the clamps each time and cut the board. Not to mention 2-3 times the amount of sawdust to dispose of (will also be harder to control the dust) and the extra noise.
Or is this just a post to bait a mr G... :wink:
Jason
You say 1/4" bits are cheaper than saw blades but given the fact that when routing MFC a router bit will have lost its edge after about 8ft (based on cutting worktops at double the thickness) you will get through a lot of router bits compared to saw blades.
Also time will be a cost factor, think how quickly you can rip say ten strips of board 100x1220 on a saw then compare that to having to hold down the board, mark it out, set the clamps each time and cut the board. Not to mention 2-3 times the amount of sawdust to dispose of (will also be harder to control the dust) and the extra noise.
Or is this just a post to bait a mr G... :wink:
Jason
mailee
Established Member
There won't be a lot of plunge depth on a 1/4" router bit either, it would take forever to cut a piece of timber. I think like the others that it wouldn't be worth the hassle of setting up, very time consuming. :? I have often cut my sheets with the skill saw and guide and then routed the edges which I find the quickest and most accurate in my small shop and would reccomend this method every time. :wink:
colinc
Established Member
I don't own a table saw and have in the past used a router to trim the endgrain of hardwood table tops which has worked for me.
I haven't previously used much sheet material on serious work but am currently planning a number of storage projects using mdf and veneered mdf. Yesterday I spent the day cutting up 18mm mdf with a Mafell Flexsystem Saw which I have been loaned on demo.
I have to say it does the job magnificently. I'll leave some notes on the reviews pages but the speed of use, quality of the dust extraction and cut quality sells it for me. I don't think that my routers compete on either of the first two counts.
Is the track system one where you can use a saw too?
colin
I haven't previously used much sheet material on serious work but am currently planning a number of storage projects using mdf and veneered mdf. Yesterday I spent the day cutting up 18mm mdf with a Mafell Flexsystem Saw which I have been loaned on demo.
I have to say it does the job magnificently. I'll leave some notes on the reviews pages but the speed of use, quality of the dust extraction and cut quality sells it for me. I don't think that my routers compete on either of the first two counts.
Is the track system one where you can use a saw too?
colin
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