graycbr
Established Member
hi guys
Thinking of upgrading the standard fence on my kity 419 ?
which route would you guys do ?
Thinking of upgrading the standard fence on my kity 419 ?
which route would you guys do ?
upgrading the fence on a kity 419 ?
- Thread starter graycbr
- Start date
Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:
Eric The Viking
Established Member
- Joined
- 19 Jan 2010
- Messages
- 6,599
- Reaction score
- 76
Define "upgrading" - what do you want to improve, and is it a short or long fence?
The long fence on mine had a second clamp on the back rail and was pretty good (with an added facing piece for ripping that stopped after the front edge of the blade).
The long fence on mine had a second clamp on the back rail and was pretty good (with an added facing piece for ripping that stopped after the front edge of the blade).
graycbr
Established Member
improving mine is slightly out of square as the locking part is worn
long fence ive got but need a ripping fence as well
long fence ive got but need a ripping fence as well
Eric The Viking
Established Member
- Joined
- 19 Jan 2010
- Messages
- 6,599
- Reaction score
- 76
You probably have a little bit of squareness adjustment in the rail (where it clamps to the tabletop) - slacken off, move until fence is parallel to the blade, re-tighten. I don't remember that the rail clamp itself has anything to allow fine adjustment.
To make a rip fence from a long rail, as I said, just apply some flat, parallel stuff the the face of the fence as far as the front edge of the blade and not much further - voila! short fence (and one that doesn't move about, too). There are T-slots n the fence profile too, so you can attach the short fence add-on to the main one fairly easily too.
But do the whole thing in the right order:
1. align blade to mitre track by adjusting the trunnion clamps fore and aft of the blade. This is a right PITA to do on the early versions, but you only ever need to do it once (probably!);
2. align fence/rail to mitre track.
In both cases you want exactly parallel, and ideally you need a dial gauge or similar to measure it. At a pinch you might use steel bar and feeler gauges, but that's not easy.
E.
To make a rip fence from a long rail, as I said, just apply some flat, parallel stuff the the face of the fence as far as the front edge of the blade and not much further - voila! short fence (and one that doesn't move about, too). There are T-slots n the fence profile too, so you can attach the short fence add-on to the main one fairly easily too.
But do the whole thing in the right order:
1. align blade to mitre track by adjusting the trunnion clamps fore and aft of the blade. This is a right PITA to do on the early versions, but you only ever need to do it once (probably!);
2. align fence/rail to mitre track.
In both cases you want exactly parallel, and ideally you need a dial gauge or similar to measure it. At a pinch you might use steel bar and feeler gauges, but that's not easy.
E.
