Turned travel mug

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Tazmaniandevil

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Joined
19 Apr 2011
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Location
Stirling, Scotland
Attempt no.3 kept together then. The first 2 attempts got a little too thin when some silly person went back to them after they were pretty much finished.
Fitting the handle was a pain in the hoop, and I think I will change the method next time. The wood is a bit of sycamore, well dried, and was a pleasure to turn.
TravelMug2.jpg

And again with the lid on
TravelMug1.jpg
 
Looks good Taz, but you need to get the camera to focus on the subject rather than the background!
 
Well done taz!

How did you hollow out the centre? My first attempt was/is rubbish haha! It's still on the lathe because I haven't finished hollowing the depth! I went a bit too thin on the walls though :-/
 
=Adam=":1yluqk3a said:
How did you hollow out the centre? My first attempt was/is rubbish haha! It's still on the lathe because I haven't finished hollowing the depth! I went a bit too thin on the walls though :-/
My first 2 attempts went too thin mate, it's all trial & error. I didn't touch the outside until I was happy with the inside, which helped. I hollowed so far, then marked the depth with a 2" forstner bit. Once I had my ideal depth I could hollow the width to allow the insert to slip inside These cups do need a gap to allow insulation, but I have no idea how much of a gap.
I don't have a bowl rest, so I stick my long tool rest inside the cavity and use the tailstock to lean my torso on while I hollow.
 
Did you use an extension on the forstener bit or was that the point of hollowing before drilling?

I think I need to prepare some more blanks to try this again haha! What did you use to hollow? I used a 1/2 bowl gouge, a round nose scraper and a sorby multi tip hollowing tool, none of which made it easy. I suppose it didn't help that I was using oak, perhaps I will use pine or a softer wood for the next one so that I know what I am doing!
 
I hollowed so far so the whole chuck would fit inside. :lol:
I used a 3/8" bowl gouge and a round nosed scraper to do the hollowing. Setting the tool rest quite far inside the beaker helps because the pivot point is nearer the tool tip, so easier to control.
 
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