ts200 Miter gauge dimension

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Hi I have a Kity 1619 and wanted to buy a miter bar to make a crosscut sledge I understand that the ts200 is similar.
My Current bar measures 15.2 mm at the narrow width and 17.8 mm at the widest width.
Does anyone know the measurements of the ts200 or have a sorce where I could buy similar miter bar?
Many thanks
Rich
 
My original ts200 mitre bar is the same dimensions.

I made a replacement (improved) bar from 15 x 6mm flat bar, with 3mm ball bearing grub screws fitted in the side to adjust the fit.

I can take some photo's if your interested.
 
olddogsleeping":1thm15y0 said:
My original ts200 mitre bar is the same dimensions.

I made a replacement (improved) bar from 15 x 6mm flat bar, with 3mm ball bearing grub screws fitted in the side to adjust the fit.

I can take some photo's if your interested.

Please do!
 
Ok, this is my replacement mitre bar made from 15x6mm flat bar;


And it next to the somewhat battered original bar,


I cross drilled and tapped M3 threads all the way through in three places



then fitted sprung ball bearing grub screws, with a normal grub screw behind to lock their position once set




 
oh wow - I didn't know you could buy sprung grub screws. Where did you get them?

Edit : ah! got em. 'Ball Point Grub Set Screws' on ebay
 
Hi Transalantic may i ask, do the grub screws replace and fit into the steel t section and how would you say that improves the system?
Many thanks for your response.
 
transatlantic":1yj9xcp6 said:
oh wow - I didn't know you could buy sprung grub screws. Where did you get them?

Edit : ah! got em. 'Ball Point Grub Set Screws' on ebay
BRILLIANT!!! I think you've just solved the problem of sideways play in the tailstock of my Mystro.
 
[email protected]":20xfrihw said:
Hi Transalantic may i ask, do the grub screws replace and fit into the steel t section and how would you say that improves the system?
Many thanks for your response.

The idea is that you want as little play/slop as possible. The chances of you buying a piece of Aluminium or steel section that fits precisely in the mitre slots is very unlikely, and even the smallest of play is both detectable and annoying. So the sprung ball bearings is a neat way to take up the slack. I haven't personally used them, but I know they're used on 3rd party gauges for a perfect fit. The ball bearings also make for a smoother sliding guide.
 
How stiff are the springs?
If the wood jumps while cutting say when you hit a knot does it slop about? Or is that not an issue?Perhaps the roller can only move 0.1mm? I like the idea of a roller bearing so it does not wear out the guide slot. I had always wanted to install brass grub screws but was worried about them working loose. The idea of adding a second screw to lock it is brilliantly simple.
Think I'm gonna get some of these. Thanks for sharing

Neil

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk
 
The springs are not as stiff as I would like.
You can adjust them so they have minimal movement, but this gave me issues on my TS200 as the slots are not perfect, the right slot narrows by more than 0.1mm over it's length and the left slot is overall slightly tighter than than the right. If I adjust for perfect fit on the right slot, the mitre bar then sticks in the left. So I have it adjusted such that it runs perfectly in the left slot, but it is then possible to push against the springs at the front of the right slot. Still it's a big improvement over the original bar.

before I discovered the ball bearing grub screws I was going to use nylon tip grub screws, but reasoned they would wear to the slots tight points and leave the bar sloppy elsewhere.
 
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