Trivets

[dovetail2007]

Hi Guys,

Being in the position of many woodworkers; short of cash and a large list of machinery needed (I predict I'm half way down the infamous slope ) I have decided that I need to produce something cheap on materials, knock out a load and sell them, to fund the purchase of machinery and/or higher quality materials.
So, trivets it is - they should be cheap/easy/quick to make and are always needed by people.

I have decided to go with the cheap softwood from Wickes (18x34mm) which I have used extensively before. I plan to cut out the knotty sections of the timber and with the pieces remaining, rout a rebate on two faces, and a profile of some sort on another - leaving only one edge standard.
The profiled edge will be on the outside top, and the two rebates on the inside.
One rebate will house the tile (10x10 wall tiles) and the other will hold the base (3mm MDF or ply)
Mitre the corners, glue and clamp and then insert the base into the rebate - glue and then inlay the tile.

Depending on the tiles I get, I may stain the pine prior to assembly.

As usual, a couple of questions:
1) Anyone know if shops like "Topps Tiles" sell individual / small quantities of tiles? I don't really want a case all the same..
2) Would the pine need to be preserved, due to the heat which it will be exposed to? I reckon that most pots/pans/dishes/mugs have cooled down within 15minutes, so the timber will only have to withstand the heat for around 15 minutes at a time - will this warp/bend/shrink the material in this time?
3) Similar question to 2) but relating to the tile adhesive

Cheers, and as always I await your excellent responses


Sam

 

[tiler99]

Topps tiles are rubbish but thats my opinion.
Try local tilers and just ask if they have the odd tiles left over, i throw all mine away.
As for adhesives you will be fine with any well known tile adhesive suitable for wood or just use no nails. Why not use a hot glue gun?

 

[dovetail2007]

Thanks for the reply.
I'm not experienced with Topps, nor any other tile merchant - I'm not particularly fussed about quality etc. - they were just the first name that came to my head and they are local
I thought about using a hot glue gun, but you need to be fairly fast with your gluing before it hardens - I doubt I could neatly squeeze it round a 10cm square and plonk a tile in it before it hardens...
I suppose I could just use normal tile adhesive!

Ta,

Sam

 

[tiler99]

i would use the glue gun myself less mess. Go to a small tile shop or phone the fixers, just ask. In the past i have had requests for broken tiles for people to use as mosaic. I am quite happy for them to take them.

 

[Travis Byrne]

Hello Sam
I have made a few of these. The only problem is that my customer were the non paying type (friends).
I used a little different approach while making mine. I made a rebate all around the top matching the depth to the thickness of the tile. I then layed a bed of silicone in the rebate. Keep in mind that all tiles are not flat.
Then I inserted the tile into the bed of silicone. This does 2 things. First it allows for the unevenness of the tile and second it allows for the tile to sit proud of the wood surface about 2mm, thus keeping the hot off the wood. No need for backing. Run what ever profile on the outer edge of frame. I did stain mine before putting in the tile. I also painted some of mine. I thought that both styles looked good.
Good luck with yours.
Travis

 

[dovetail2007]

OK, thanks for the advice tiler - will do some ringing around tomorrow!
From memory, do you know if:
a) Tiles are a standard thickness
b) If yes to (a) what the thickness is?

Cheers,

Sam

 

[dovetail2007]

Hello Sam
I have made a few of these. The only problem is that my customer were the non paying type (friends).
I used a little different approach while making mine. I made a rebate all around the top matching the depth to the thickness of the tile. I then layed a bed of silicone in the rebate. Keep in mind that all tiles are not flat.
Then I inserted the tile into the bed of silicone. This does 2 things. First it allows for the unevenness of the tile and second it allows for the tile to sit proud of the wood surface about 2mm, thus keeping the hot off the wood. No need for backing. Run what ever profile on the outer edge of frame. I did stain mine before putting in the tile. I also painted some of mine. I thought that both styles looked good.
Good luck with yours.
Travis

Thanks Travis - you must have posted whilst I was posting my last reply!
I will try this technique - I hadn't thought of allowing them to stand proud but can definitely see the benefit.

When you say no need for backing, does this not look odd because looking from the back of the trivet you can see the underside of the tile?

Cheers,

Sam

 

[Travis Byrne]

Sam
Yes you can see the back of the tile but when placed on the work top, you may never it again. Most of the ladies I KNOW just figure thats the way it is supposed to look Also if you decide to use some paint on the wood, try some different colours. Maybe the customer may find one that matches her decorations ie: worktop,curtains,etc.
Travis

PS You may have to experiment with the depth of the rebate to get the desired results.

 

[Lord Nibbo]

Sam don't buy any tiles, go to any/all your local hardware stores and ask if they have any discontinued display panels with tiles on, you will be surprised what they would throw away.

 

[paulm]

I would go the silicone route also, this is the standard approach when doing similar things in a woodturning context due to movement/flex in the timber afterwards and uneven tiles.

Anything too rigid risks the tile cracking or coming away from the timber as the tile absorbs heat or the timber moves in a hot/steamy kitchen.

You can get some "theme" tiles from Craft Supplies and similar http://www.craft-supplies.co.uk/cgi-bin ... oodturning Not everyone's cup of tea, but might add some variety.

Don't forget to post some pics !

Cheers, Paul.