Titebond Hide glue for workbench tenons?

[Doingupthehouse]

I’ve been experimenting recently with Titebond Liquid Hide Glue and really like it a lot. Can anybody think of a good reason I shouldn’t use it on the leg tenons on my workbench build?

Personally I can’t see why not in a dry workshop. It seems to swell the fibres less than PVAs and makes getting joints together less stressful.

Opinions...?

More pictures in build thread soon.

 

[custard]

"Can anybody think of a good reason I shouldn’t use it on the leg tenons on my workbench build?"

None whatsoever. Furthermore, PVA is "grabby", I suspect it's pressure sensitive and can set faster under pressure. On really large tenons (or with Domino tenons) you can struggle to close up a joint that final millimetre because the pressures are greater and the PVA has set quicker than you expected.

I'm using liquid hide glue more and more, the only negative I find is that the glue lines aren't quite as invisible as with PVA, but for a workbench that's a non issue.

 

[AndyT]

I agree. Liquid hide glue is great stuff. Easy to use, easy to clean up and perfectly strong enough.
PVA might be cheaper if you get through a gallon a week, but for the average hobbyist that's no big deal.

 

[deema]

Nothing wrong with it at all, unless you intend to take the bench outside and it will get soaked!

Cascamite is my go to glue for almost everything. Don’t have to worry about it freezing, waterproof, long open time for any size tennons, dries clear and best of all its cheap in comparison!

 

[ColeyS1]

Nothing wrong with it at all, unless you intend to take the bench outside and it will get soaked!

Cascamite is my go to glue for almost everything. Don’t have to worry about it freezing, waterproof, long open time for any size tennons, dries clear and best of all its cheap in comparison!

But it is brittle. I made a batch of windows and used cascamite to glue a few casements before changing over to titebond 3. I had quite delicate glazing bars and decided I would speed the job up by using the drum sander- that was a mistake regardless. Pretty much all the glazing bars let go that were glued with cascamite whilst the ones glued with titebond flexed a bit, but remained stuck.

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[MusicMan]

Furthermore, PVA is "grabby", I suspect it's pressure sensitive and can set faster under pressure. On really large tenons (or with Domino tenons) you can struggle to close up a joint that final millimetre because the pressures are greater and the PVA has set quicker than you expected.

I'm using liquid hide glue more and more, the only negative I find is that the glue lines aren't quite as invisible as with PVA, but for a workbench that's a non issue.

Yes, it is pressure sensitive. In fact I think pressure is the most important factor in it "going off".

I started using liquid hide glue on your recommendation, Custard, and find it really excellent.