Titebond Cold Press Veneer Adhesive question.

[JJ1]

I'm just about to have my first go at veneering onto MDF. Could anyone tell me please if the Titebond Cold Press Veneer glue is supposed to be applied to one surface only or both the veneer and MDF? I've read the instructions on the bottle and searched Titebond's website but couldn't find the answer.

Also, is two or three hours ample clamping time or is it better, or necessary, to ideally leave it overnight?

Thanks,

 

[Kalimna]

I'm afraid I dont know the answer, but have you tried emailing titebond? I am sure they would be helpful.

Adam

 

[JJ1]

I was going to e-mail Titebond but I didn't think of it until after office hours and I need to find out this evening, if possible, so I'm ready to make a start first thing in the morning.

 

[Peter Sefton]

We have used this in the workshop and have found it to be fairly good and easy to use. Only put it on the MDF not the veneer, 3 hours in a warm workshop should be fine but overnight would be better if possible.
Cheers Peter

 

[JJ1]

Thanks Peter, that's a big help



One further question if I may. If I'm veneering a rectangular piece of MDF, as one of the four sides for a box. Is there any particular order I should apply the veneer? I was going to do the two long edges first, then the two short edges, then finally, the two faces. Is that ok, or is it preferable to do the faces first?

 

[Sgian Dubh]

Apply it to the ground only to avoid causing the veneer curling up if you apply it to that as well; veneer curling up makes it difficult to handle and can lead to screw ups during alignment and pressing. And, if you think about it, you should be able to half the glue application time if you just glue the ground.

As to time, I'm not sure about Titebond's pressure time requirements, but we use a PVA veneer press glue which we leave in the press for a minimum of a half hour, but generally anywhere between an hour to overnight. I think the Titebond product is a similar PVA formulation, so I suspect similar pressing times would apply. However, I always say when all else fails, read the instructions. They're bound to be on the container somewhere, and if not they probably have a product data sheet on their website that will give guidelines.

Here's one link I found after a few minutes search to get you started. Slainte.
http://www.titebond.com/product.aspx?id ... 94cc3ae102

 

[JJ1]

Thanks for your input Richard and for the tip about avoiding the veneer curling.
I think I'll allow plenty of clamping time for my first attempt until I get more experience with the procedure.

Also, many thanks for the excellent article on your website about softening veneers. A few days ago I made up some softener as per your recipe and it's worked a treat. An old suntan lotion bottle proved an ideal container for it, giving a good, fine mist spray.

 

[Peter Sefton]

Thanks Peter, that's a big help



One further question if I may. If I'm veneering a rectangular piece of MDF, as one of the four sides for a box. Is there any particular order I should apply the veneer? I was going to do the two long edges first, then the two short edges, then finally, the two faces. Is that ok, or is it preferable to do the faces first?

I am back out in the shop for a bit of catching up, just checked the instructions on the bottle which states between 45 mins to 2 hours, so three should be plenty. Our Tool shop website carries a little more information including the COSHH data sheet if required.
I think I understand the question regards the order of veneering the edges which should be fine, my only thought would be I am not keen on veneer as an edging and would rather a 3mm lipping all round prior to veneering the faces.
Let us know how you get on.
Cheers Peter

 

[JJ1]

Thanks again Peter. I also prefer the idea of a solid lipping but at this stage I'm just literally having a 'play' to see how I get on, before attempting to do it for real, so to speak.
I bought a big box of assorted veneer's from my local car boot sale for the grand total of £1 so I thought I would do some experimenting with those to get started and learn a little about veneering and the best way of finishing them.

 

[RogerS]

+1 re the softening tips

 

[wellywood]

Thanks again Peter. I also prefer the idea of a solid lipping but at this stage I'm just literally having a 'play' to see how I get on, before attempting to do it for real, so to speak.
I bought a big box of assorted veneer's from my local car boot sale for the grand total of £1 so I thought I would do some experimenting with those to get started and learn a little about veneering and the best way of finishing them.

If you're veneering the edges do the faces first then apply the edges oversized and trim back after dry with a lightly set plane slightly angled to avoid the face veneer.

 

[JJ1]

If you're veneering the edges do the faces first then apply the edges oversized and trim back after dry with a lightly set plane slightly angled to avoid the face veneer.

Thanks

 

[wellywood]

There's also a simple method of applying edge banding if you're using PVA glue. Thin enough PVA with water (10 to 1 ratio). Wet the face of your veneer edge band and flip it over. Brush on the PVA/water mix to the edge banding and the edge of the ground to be covered and allow to dry. Once dry, lightly sand both dried glue faces to remove any nibs then recoat both faces with the glue/water mix and allow to dry again. Once dried (when it appears clear and shiny), use an iron on a warm temp setting (low enough not to scorch the veneer) to reactivate the glue as you press the veneer band on to the ground edge. Then trim off any excess.
I used this method to apply the edge banding on a sewing box (see under 'Hinge problem' in General Woodworking) and it worked extremely well.

(Attributed to 'Furniture & Cabinet Construction - Andy Rae)

 

[custard]

There's also a simple method of applying edge banding if you're using PVA glue. Thin enough PVA with water (10 to 1 ratio)

I agree that if you're using regular PVA to veneer with then thinning with a tiny splash of water makes a surprisingly big difference, it makes sure the glue spreads smoothly and evenly. But I think Titebond cold press is already a bit thinner so doesn't need as much if any thinning, too much water risks adding to veneer curl/wrinkling problems.

This applies to normal veneers, for burls or very thin veneers things get a bit more complex and it's often useful to have some other adhesives in your arsenal as you're more at risk from bleed through and dealing with voids in the veneer surface.

Regarding edging with veneers, I've done it successfully on small pieces like jewellry boxes that will be handled carefully, but I'd be reticent on larger furniture pieces as it just isn't very robust. I'd normally edge first then veneer when using solid edging, but you may want to use a fine inlay line between the edging and the face veneer. In which case I'd veneer the faces, apply the edging, then inlay.

Good luck!

 

[Sgian Dubh]

Also, many thanks for the excellent article on your website about softening veneers. A few days ago I made up some softener as per your recipe and it's worked a treat.

I'm pleased you found it useful. Slainte.

 

[JJ1]

Thank you for the advice and tips.