Timber recomendation for interior doors

[Bassbear81]

I need to make a airing cupboard door for someone, they want it made from oak but Im worried about movement especially as its for an airing cupboard.

Does anyone have any sugestions for timber that is most stable.

 

[katellwood]

What style door, framed and panelled, flush, ledged and braced. Solid timber or manmade and veneered. In addition what size, there are too many imponderables in your original post to give a suitable reply

 

[ColeyS1]

If its going to be painted, go for tulip wood. I'd have thought oak should be fine providing you let the timber aclimatise to the airing cupboards moisture content thingyme jig ;-)

 

[Bassbear81]

It will be raised panel, they want hardwood similar to oak, finish will prob be osmo, size is 1500 x 500 x 22mm

 

[katellwood]

That dictates solid panel in a mortice and tenon frame. at 1500mm are you intending on incorporating a middle rail?

To minimise movement post construction are you in a position to second season the timber for a couple of weeks prior to machining and construction. This will allow the timber to acclimatise to its surroundings prior to being cut to size.

To keep the timber flat you could use quarter sawn timber so if there is movement the material would stay flat (however in my experience this is not essential as the joints keep the stiles and rails flat and the panel is supported in its groove which should not be glued to allow for movement).

Finally through mortice and tenons would help to keep the stiles flat as opposed to biscuits, domino's, stub tenons of tenons only the depth of the panel groove

If constructed properly and with timber correctly acclimatised you should have no problems but remember no iron or mild steel fixings (it reacts with the tannic acid in the oak and turns it black)

Hope this helps

 

[Bassbear81]

That's a great help, yes I was going to put a centre rail in, but not sure what height, is there a general rule.

I was goin to use a stile and rail router bit to construct, will this be suitable or will I have to use mortise tenon.

Thanks

 

[katellwood]

If the door is stand alone and not to match similar doors in the locality then I would centre the rail.

Re the actual construction I have never used a stile and rail router bit always utilising mortice and tenon construction, however if the wood is dry and acclimatised then there is no reason it should not stay flat. My thoughts on a through M & T is that the tenon being cross grain to the stile will help keep it perfectly flat and with one top bottom and middle you will get no movement in the stile

In the atmosphere to where the door is destined humidity could change considerably as, as an airing cupboard dampish clothing, bedding and towels are likely to be placed on a regular basis utilising residual heat to dry/air cloth

best of luck with the project and let me know how you get on

Kind Regards

Chris

 

[Bassbear81]

Thanks for the advice, I will let you know how it goes.

 

[Tierney]

+1 for tulip wood (mine were painted)..

I've recently done several internal doors out of it. I used 50mm tenons on the rails, 30mm on the muntins and plywood for the panels. I tried two ways to do the moulding. 1) Routed the moulding on the rails, stiles etc. and used a mason's mitre at the joints; 2) applied the moulding after the door was made. The mason's mitre's were tricky to avoid getting a gap; but, I think they were slightly less of a pain in the ass than number 2. I wished I had coughed up and bought rail and stile router bit set; but, I'm not sure if they work with mortice and tenon joints. I agree with Chris (kattelwood) that you need decent joints.

You should also include a middle hinge if possible.

Regards,

DT