thinking of getting record power remounting jaws mega

[Ridethewave]

As my lathe bed is only 3" below center I have to swivel the headstock whenever turning bowls larger than 6". therefore I cant use support from tailstock with a jam chuck etc.

the rp remounting jaws look good and I could keep my standard jaws on at the same time which sounds good.
Anyone have experience of this setup?
I have the sc4 chuck on my coronet minor lathe

Thanks John

 

[SVB]

If you’re referring to Cole jaws then they are fine for light cuts to remove chucking marks etc but do not provide sufficient hold to actually turn a bowl with.

Perhaps not the answer you wanted but hopefully helpful.

Simon

 

[Ridethewave]

yep just for removing tenons and perhaps a little light truing up/sanding/polishing etc. these jaws allow you to leave them on underneath your normal jaws and I was wondering if anyone does that as it would save a lot of time removing and replacing jaws or buying another chuck.

Thanks Simon

John

 

[CHJ]

I use Cole jaws extensively with various home made buttons and clamps as well as the 'supplied' variety.

Unless you are going to turn all your bowls in a rim form that allows a good retention grip, flared outer rim for external grip or incurving under cut for internal gripping then they will not be suitable for safe use in the pivoted mode.

You need the buttons to engage as a "dovetail" grip unless you have revolving tailstock centre for clamping retention support on any other form, the buttons will not hold on a parallel cylinder safely even for sanding if there is any risk of lateral pressure.

 

[Ridethewave]

Thanks for that input Chas. Do you often need tailstock support or have you made different fittings for different edges. do the supplied buttons which I guess are 90 degree hold rims that fit snugly or do you find that you need the dovetail versions and shape the bowls correspondingly.... or something else? All I would be looking to do is cut off tenons.sand and finish, but I wouldnt want bowls flying around!

John

 

[CHJ]

Tailstock support 80% of the time, even when things appear to be soundly held, halts and prevents any risk from movement out of the chuck.

In use:-
Tapered buttons, as supplied soft rubber, firm rubber, as purchased.
HDPE, Metal, extended length, off centre etc. custom clamps as needed home made.

Looking at some of my project links you may see tapered buttons holding segmented rings for turning without tailstock support but these are hard rubber with little flex and cutting loads are mainly towards the chuck so very little lateral load to dislodge them, I would not recommend someone new to turning doing this without having had some turning experience, I now use extended HDPE or sharp edged metal in this mode to avoid any button flexing.
Typical use

 

[Ridethewave]

Thanks Chas.

Just been looking at doughnut chuck method to use instead of tailstock support.(anything larger than 6 inch diameter I have to swivel the head)anything smaller I guess jam chuck possibly best way to go.

Have also noticed tape method and clingfilm mentioned stretched around rim.

John

 

[CHJ]

Doughnut chuck is the safe and most versatile way to go without tailstock support for safety.

You could use the Cole Jaws as a foundation to mount the clamping colar.

Another Cole Jaw use example

 

[Ridethewave]

Thanks . That's my plan now.
I've ordered them with the additional buffer kit(dovetails).

John

 

[Ridethewave]

Have been using the cole Jaws for a couple of days and am very happy with them. the dovetail buttons(so called buffer kit) have held the two bowls I've worked on(flared rims) very well. been able to true up and sand and clean up base very nicely. havent tried holding anything yet with 90 degree rim.

John