mailee
Established Member
I use a modified Steve Maskery jig for most of my tennons, (Thanks Steve) but it has it's limitations as to the length of timber I can cut being vertically mounted. I came up with this one for making tennons on long rails like gates and large doors.
It is basically a flat plate with a square hole on one end. A fence is fitted below the plate to allow the timber to be held in position below the plate. An end stop is fitted at right angles to this for the timber to butt against.
On top is a small moveable fence which slides on rails and can be set at right angles to give the position of the shoulder cut.
A slot is cut into the plate to allow a clamp to attach it to the timber being cut.
In use the router follows the sliding fence to cut the shoulder line and the only adjustment is to the router plunge depth for the cuts to the cheeks.
Once one side is cut it can be turned over to cut the opposite cheek. Providing the timber is square this is a very accurate method to use for long lengths like gate rails where it is hard to move the timber about.
It is basically a flat plate with a square hole on one end. A fence is fitted below the plate to allow the timber to be held in position below the plate. An end stop is fitted at right angles to this for the timber to butt against.
On top is a small moveable fence which slides on rails and can be set at right angles to give the position of the shoulder cut.
A slot is cut into the plate to allow a clamp to attach it to the timber being cut.
In use the router follows the sliding fence to cut the shoulder line and the only adjustment is to the router plunge depth for the cuts to the cheeks.
Once one side is cut it can be turned over to cut the opposite cheek. Providing the timber is square this is a very accurate method to use for long lengths like gate rails where it is hard to move the timber about.
