temperature resistant wood glue?

[Woodmonkey]

I'm making a wooden travel mug at the moment (metal liner inside obviously) I'm making the handle from wood too but I'm worried that the hot drink may cause the glue joint to fail, what would be the best glue to use in this instance? Or am i worrying unnecessarily, I wouldn't expect the outer layer of wood to get more than warm to the touch.
Cheers.

 

[Harbo]

Worrying unnecessary I think but epoxy is heat resistant?

Rod

 

[Peter Sefton]

I would also go for epoxy

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

+3 For epoxy. Some years back I stuck a component on to a metal chimenea which reaches goodness knows what temperatures. The piece remained in place.

 

[Peter Sefton]

I believe epoxy gets even stronger with temperature if it is applied during the curing process, not that this is something I have experience of in the furniture industry.

 

[custard]

I don't think most normal epoxies are all that temperature resistant. I was once present in a workshop where they were building a laminated chair that was going to have a scorched finish, this required a special epoxy with a higher than normal post cure melting point. I've also experienced cured epoxy melting when it's been used to bond a sheathing to a boat's deck and bronze screws were driven tightly through the deck, the friction of driving home the screw melted the epoxy and dragged some of it down with the screw thread where it subsequently re-hardened and effectively glued the screws in place, making it almost impossible to remove the screws without shearing them off.

One option would be Titebond Extend. It's chiefly marketed as having a longer open time, but another feature is its temperature resistance, consequently it's the recommended adhesive for fire surrounds and mantlepieces.

 

[MIGNAL]

Most epoxies that I've used (OK, only a few) give way at relatively low temperatures.
The glue that really does resist very high temperatures is the powdered resin glue, cascamite. I've had it up to 350 F. and it does nothing to it. In fact you are in greater danger of burning the wood than releasing the glue.
Hide or Animal glue also resists very high temperatures well.

 

[custard]

Most epoxies that I've used (OK, only a few) give way at relatively low temperatures.
The glue that really does resist very high temperatures is the powdered resin glue, cascamite. I've had it up to 350 F. and it does nothing to it. In fact you are in greater danger of burning the wood than releasing the glue.
Hide or Animal glue also resists very high temperatures well.

I was with you all the way up to the bit about hide glue. You can disassemble furniture made with hide glue by using hot water, or lift hide glue veneers with a warm iron.

 

[MIGNAL]

Common misconception I'm afraid. I use Hide when laminating thin veneers to Guitar bandings. They are thin (2 mm's) and get bent on a very hot iron - 350 F +. They do not delaminate. If they delaminated I would have stopped using it 20 years ago!
The 'clue' is in your reference to 'using hot water'. You need both heat and moisture to release animal glues. Heat alone does not do it, although it may make it a little more brittle.

http://www.frets.com/FretsPages/Luthier ... etest.html

 

[custard]

I take your point...but the OP's question was for a hot beverage drinking mug.

 

[MIGNAL]

Yes, I know. But if he spilled hot liquid on to the handle (even the whole cup) it's hardly going to give way. Those of us who take musical instruments apart would be dong cartwheels in the street if it gave way that easily.
It just isn't that easy. Try it. Do a glue up and leave it a few days before applying heat, then heat/ water. It takes a bit of time and concentrated effort to get these things apart.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I take your point...but the OP's question was for a hot beverage drinking mug.

With a metal liner.