supplies for framing

[mickthetree]

Morning all

I have made up a load of framing material from odd bits of wood around the workshop and now need to source the glass, mount board and backing board.

I'm happy to cut all of these (the glass to a lesser extent, but I've done it before).

Got me to thinking if anyone sells glass, mount and backing board as a kit for standard size prints (10x8 7x5 etc)

If not does anyone have a source for these online? We have a local glaziers who I will try for the glass too.

Many thanks

 

[Eric The Viking]

I've been cheating, by getting cheap clip frames from Asda and cutting them up, usually on the bandsaw.

That's 1.5mm or 2mm Plexiglas/Perspex/acrylic though, so may not be suitable, but for small frames it's been working for me, and you can get several out of one poster-sized piece. They're sold in their protective polythene skinning, so don't scratch terribly easily, and I much prefer not having to have a lot of glass about in the workshop as it's got an uneven concrete floor.

You can use the backing board too (2mm MDF), and even cut it to incorporate the pre-fitted hangers (although they are a bit tacky), but 8x4 sheets of 2mm MDF are really cheap, and you can't use the whole back anyway. It's quite nice only needing 4mm or so for the frame rebate too - I can use up thinner stock for small frames.

There are specialist firms that sell framing stuff, but it's pretty expensive. For tabletop stands now, I bore a 1/2" deep 1/4" (or 6mm) hole in the middle of the frame back, heading towards the front, angled so it takes a small bite out of the edge of the backing board but misses the moulding, heading for the outer edge of the frame. I supply a short length of dowel, usually masking-taped to the back of the frame. The dowel is a tight fit in the hole, and provides the support for the frame to sit nicely at a tilt. I also rebate one of those toothed hangers on the opposite edge, so it will go on a pin in a wall (don't like the rings and cords arrangement on small frames).

I find the biggest difficulty is keeping the moulding dimensionally consistent over the length of the run. If it's decorative on furniture, etc, you don't really notice, but, especially if it's built up in several passes, it's easy to be 1/2mm off in the middle, which then messes up the mitres when you cut it up. I often find I'm fettling with a small skew chisel to get a reasonably invisible joint.

 

[mickthetree]

Cheers Eric, thats most helpful.

I'm pretty happy with my stock as I have a drum sander. I have an old Nobex saw which give racking results straight off the saw, but I also have a mitre shooting board setup if final tweaking is needed.

There are some pretty awful frames for sale in the shops, wide mitre gaps etc and I did think about utilising these for parts. But the ones with nice non reflective glass and nice mountboard are pricey. So back to making them myself! Plus I can use up some really nice bits of wood I've had around for a while.

 

[AndyT]

Artist's materials shops sell mounting board in large sheets and a variety of colours. Quite possibly the place for non - reflective plastic too, though the last time I needed some I got it from our local hardware shop who sell it cut to size.

 

[Eric The Viking]

There are some pretty awful frames for sale in the shops, wide mitre gaps etc and I did think about utilising these for parts. But the ones with nice non reflective glass and nice mountboard are pricey. So back to making them myself! Plus I can use up some really nice bits of wood I've had around for a while.

I quite agree. The D.C. likes really over-ornamental frames (you know, the Silver plated things, etc.), so the ones I do are mostly for other people. I did one for Dad before Christmas - what do you get a retired engineer who insists he has everything he wants? You put his name on the fin of the Bloodhound!

So I printed off the PDF they sent nicely, and framed it with a spalted Ash offcut I had kicking around - it looked pretty good, although I ended up with a frustrating amount left over - too long to waste but too short for another decent frame (you do lose a lot cutting mitres on wide frames). First go with the peg thing at the back, which seemed to work really well. Stupidly I forgot to take a photo of it, but I'll try to grab one next time I get down to see them.

I'd love a Nobex! I get pretty good results from the EB KGS 300 (SCMS), but it's old and has a little too much play, and has an almost 4mm kerf. So I tend to go over by about 1/3 mm and tune it. If it's right first time, the frame is only slightly "floaty".

Probably the best thing about a Nobex (apart from being dead-on) is there's very little chance of tearout. That's a nuisance with the SCMS, even when the blade has been recently sharpened.

E.

PS: AndyT -- is that the indispensable Bishopston Hardware, by any chance? ;-)

 

[Harbo]

If you are buying backing boards and mounting boards, make sure they are acid free.
If not they will turn brown in time and leach into the original work.
I've had a few paintings damaged this way and they were professionally framed!
I now check if I'm having any done - the acid free materials are not much more expensive.

 

[mickthetree]

Thanks Harbo. Will do.

 

[AndyT]

Eric - yes of course! I didn't name it as I realise that lots of people don't have proper hardware shops any more though we still have quite a few in Bristol. They are always convenient and often low priced.

It was for a print that my in-laws wanted framing. I made the moulding from some wood they gave me that was too good to chuck out - they know me well!

 

[Logger]

Hi there,

Best places to try are lion picture framing supplies or Wessex framing supplies. Both will deliver although with lion, you have to order 20 sheets of Mount board per order. Wessex don't have limits, you can go with one sheet. If you can get you Hayes in Middlesex, then you can go into lion and buy any supplies including single sheets of Mount board and glass in different sizes

In terms of backing boards, they have a range of choices including MDF or fluted board (easier to cut)

The mount board choices are daler rowney, Bainbridge, Arcadia or colour mount, I use daler mostly.

In terms of acid free previously mentioned, both suppliers mentioned sell p70 tape which is acid free. The mount board comes in conservation ranges which are acid free as well. When you cut a mount, it should be hinged with another board and the artwork attached to that board, never the mount board with aperture. This also means the artwork doesn't touch the backing board which is acidic.

The glass is normally 2mm float glass and is pretty easy to cut. I use a toyo glass cutter and t square. The key is to never go back over your cut.

If you would like any advice, I would on how to fit artwork correctly etc, I would happily give any advice I can. I have been framing for 6 years and was taught by a guy from the fine art trade guild so was very lucky.

Cheers

Nick

 

[dickm]

Tip from a cheapskate - look in the boxes of framed pictures in most charity shops and you will find some awful pictures behind non reflective glass. Often only 50p a piece, which is a lot less than a comparable piece of non-r from our local glass suppliers.

Glass cutting - forget the multi wheel type, get a proper single wheel cutter of reputable make (it helps having a daughter in the automotive glass trade!) and lubricate the cut with paraffin. Then be confident.

 

[Marineboy]

Have you thought of using 5mm foam board instead of proper mounting board? Dead easy to cut, cheap and light. I've used it to mount A3+ prints using IKEA frames with perspex 'glass'. I didn't bother trying to mitre cut the cutout but just did it at 90 degrees.

 

[riclepp]

"If you can get you Hayes in Middlesex, then you can go into lion and buy any supplies including single sheets of Mount board and glass in different sizes"



No you can't, they shut the branch in Middlesex; they only have their main branch in Birmingham now. I would avoid Lion like the plague, I used to buy most of my framing supplies from them, now I have started to use Wessex (you have to be a member to view their prices). Lion's prices have gone through the roof, they are no longer very helpful and if you only want one or two sheets delivered, that's a no go as you you to buy up to 20 sheets at a time.

I agree also that buy second hand frames and bastardise them to make new, if the size is in proportion. I make my own stock as most factory produced stuff is awful and extremely overpriced for what it is! I always use glass and go to my local glass supplier and sometimes it is cheaper than the acrylic stuff. Mount board I go to my local craft shop and buy what sheets I need and the cut them out and angle the inner cut. And back board I usually use off-cuts of 3mm ply that I have knocking around.

They way I do it is not much more expensive than buying from a supplier.

Cheers