Stud Detectors - Any Good?

[Grain88748]

I've never had cause to use a stud detector so don't know much about them. What do folks think of them? Do the cheaper ones work reasonably well and will they find joists beneath flooring chipboard? Thanks.

 

[WoodMangler]

I've never had cause to use a stud detector so don't know much about them.

You could ask Joan Collins what she uses...

 

[OLD]

The ones i tried find nails fine but not studs reliably.

 

[Spindle]

Hi

I have a Stanley one which works fine.

Regards Mick

 

[Ollie78]

I have recently needed a stud detector.
First I thought I would not need it often, so opted for a Ryobi model for about £25 from B and Q I got this home and tested it on a wall where I already knew the position of the studs. In short it was rubbish at finding studs, only finding 1 in 3 of the studs. It did however find wires quite well.
This was no good to me at all, so I took it back. I decided to get a more expensive Black and decker one on offer for £65 ish. It was much better and found the edges of all the studs straight away. Also better at finding wires. An added bonus of the Black and Decker one is that it has a lazer level guide on a gimble, which I have found very handy.
My friend has a Bosch one that costs nearly £100 and that is great as well.

Ollie

 

[Blister]

OK

Just give me a shout if you need a STUD :wink: :mrgreen:

 

[bosshogg]

You don't need a stud finder to find studs or joists, just a hammer and a good ear.
Everything struck by a hammer has a reverberating tone, according to density/thickness and if you tap along a wall or floor you can detect the difference where the covering boards go over a stud/joist. Mark your estimation on the floor board, and hammer a nail in the centre to confirm a joist. Coat the nail shank in soap to allow easy removal, once you've established one, measuring the centres of studs/joists is simple. On modern floors they will be metric, on older they will be imperial (use 1970 as an approx of the change over date) Metric will be set at either 400 or 600mm, imperial 18" or 24" (both are an approximation of the other) :idea: Remember to establish approx distance with the hammer before measuring, where it's almost right by sound it will be right by the rule :idea:
Hope this helps...bosshogg

Imagination is more important than knowledge...
Albert Einstein (hammer)

 

[DTR]

Excellent suggestion bosshogg, you should post that in the Tips & Wrinkles thread for the benefit of the inexperienced (i.e. me)

 

[bosshogg]

Good :idea: I'll just do that Dave, thanks...bosshogg

 

[mtr1]

You don't need a stud finder to find studs or joists, just a hammer and a good ear.
Everything struck by a hammer has a reverberating tone, according to density/thickness and if you tap along a wall or floor you can detect the difference where the covering boards go over a stud/joist. Mark your estimation on the floor board, and hammer a nail in the centre to confirm a joist. Coat the nail shank in soap to allow easy removal, once you've established one, measuring the centres of studs/joists is simple. On modern floors they will be metric, on older they will be imperial (use 1970 as an approx of the change over date) Metric will be set at either 400 or 600mm, imperial 18" or 24" (both are an approximation of the other) :idea: Remember to establish approx distance with the hammer before measuring, where it's almost right by sound it will be right by the rule :idea:
Hope this helps...bosshogg

Imagination is more important than knowledge...
Albert Einstein (hammer)

You might want to change the imperial size slightly as its 2" out on the 18", and should be 16" on centre. Then again in some properties I've worked in, it could be either or neither.

 

[bosshogg]

Thanks Mark, you would have thought at my age and experience I might have got that right #-o ...bosshogg