Startrite 175 table saw

[vormstudio]

Hi,

It's my first post here on the forum.

I recently picked up a Startrite 175 table saw for about 80£, but it is missing some parts.

Searching for information about these table saws, all the results seem to end on this forum, so I figured I asked my question here.

I'm looking for the missing parts to get the saw going again, is there anyone that has these parts on hand (secondhand or new?).

Anyone has information about the attached dust collection? Is this a Startrite item?

I will update this post as I am rebuilding the saw.

The parts I am missing are :

numbers 3,11,12,13,16,17,18,21,22,23,24,30,31,60

Thanks!

Pascal

 

[flh801978]

Well you certainly stole it for that price
you will be lucky to find those parts
i have a few of them but they are only standard engineering parts rather than the special startrite parts
a dealer will charge a lot for those if they have them
Other option is just leave it at 90 degrees and forget about tilting for now
the dust extractor look like it could be startrite or a modified startrite extractor wedded to your saw

Ian

 

[vormstudio]

Ian,

Thanks for the reply.

Which parts could you supply?

Pascal

Sent from my Redmi 3 using Tapatalk

 

[dickm]

Looks like the only difficult pieces would be 24, 31 and 33. They'd need to be specially made if you can't find originals which, as others have said, is likely to be tricky. There is a Startrite specialist (something like ALT saws - they've been mentioned several times on the forum) who just MIGHT have these special bits available. The rest of the parts listed look like pretty standard engineers haberdashery (anyone on the forum remember the very useful Whiston's supplies???) things like nuts, washers, woodruff keys and should be easily available.

 

[Eric The Viking]

24 and 2 look very simlar - the shafts for the handles - and they're not very complicated to make, if not as one piece then in parts. Cut a woodruff key slot in a length of bar, reduce one end and cross-drill it for the linking pin, and thread the other end (male or female+length of stud), to take the two half-nuts holding the handle on. If really stuck, ask in the metalworking section here (I don't have a lathe - I wish!).

I agree with Dick - #33 looks awkward. It'll be ACME thread or a similar square profile, so making one will be hard, as the tap will be rarer than a very rare thing (if it was cut with a tap).

But... I know this is probably heretical, but you might replace the whole thread system with something like M12 studding. To make #33 you could adapt an M12 fullnut, or even make the whole piece from solid, which would only leave the two ends on the threaded bar to do - at one end it's just turned down and cross-drilled, at the other there'll be an end stop of some sort (it's out of sight in the drawing, behind the trunnion). You could do that with another nut (+ locknut), tack-welded onto the end of the studding - inelegant but functional.

Nobody would see and it ought to work fine.

ACME threads were preferred as they don't clog up as easily as normal thread forms, and there's a greater surface area, so they wear more slowly. In that context though it probably doesn't matter - it's not a lathe leadscrew, for example.

Even if you can't source "proper" parts, I don't think it's impossible to repair if you can find someone with a lathe and some time.

Deeply jealous!

E.

 

[vormstudio]

Thanks for the tips!

I found a source for all the parts, but a bit pricy (abouy 370£).

I will look into making the (some) parts myself.

The handle seems pretty straightforward.

Maybe I'll order the leadscrew.

I switched the motor from 380V to 3X220V and everything runs perfect, but I have a problem with the contactor (Danfoss C10).

If I push the external ON button, the saw doesn't start (just 'hums'). However, If I take the housing off, and I engage the black button (under the big 10, see image) the saw starts perfect. Is the contactor bad, or could there be another problem?

Pascal

 

[flh801978]

What happens if you push ( with an insulated screwdriver) the metal strip at 13?
The contractor should pull in
But if you are running it on 240v it won't pull in a 415v coil
So is the humming the coil? Or the motor

Ian

 

[flh801978]

As to the parts you can buy a complete saw for £380 easily
Startrite parts are very expensive though

 

[vormstudio]

If I push the metal strip, it doesn't start, just hums a bit more, I think it's from the coil.

The saw was made to run on 380v and 220v, so the contactor should be made for both too? Or do I have to change this?

Over here these saws are not easy to find (cheap).

I already like it much more than my Axminster TS250, so I would really like to get it to tilt again.

 

[flh801978]

The motor may be dual voltage but the starter is one or the other
You will have to put a 240 v coil contacter in or a new DOL starter complete

 

[vormstudio]

Just found this on eBay : http://www.benl.ebay.be/itm/Machine...hash=item2a6cc7a421:m:myaUEkwDE-VrwEgLMVW3cfw

I could probably use this as handle (probably faster and easier than making one myself).

The universal joint I also should be able to source easily.

For the leadscrew I will try to convert it to M12 and for the handle shaft I'm looking into getting this turned by someone.

I'll keep you updated!

 

[vormstudio]

It seems like RS-components have alot of the bits I need. (and alot cheaper than official Startrite parts).

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/universal-joints/7906693/