Stanley #79 Side Rebate Plane.

[swagman]

Its been a while since I have had to use this plane, but when the job requires it, its a handy tool to have at your disposal.

As you can see from the following 2 photo's mine requires a bit of a clean-up and resharpen, to bring it back to a serviceable condition.





After being soaked in a bath of Evapo-Rust for 24hrs. All parts were then cleaned down with WD-40 to neutralize any further reaction from the R-S, before being re-assembled. The leading skew angle on both the blades were slightly out of spec, so they received a light grinding, before the cutting edges were honed to a very sharp edge.



For demonstration purposes on how to use a Stanley #79, I chose a short length of hardwood that I had previously worked a 1/4" groove on using my Record 043 Plough Plane.




Putting aside any controversy on how to use a Stanley #79, I will just forward the way I was taught to use it. If that doesn't seek favour, then use what ever method chooses your fancy.

To increase the width of the groove from 1/4" to 3/8", 1st I scribe a line to the required distance. The direction of the long grain is then accessed, and the appropriate blade is then adjusted to the required depth of cut and tightened into position. Check to insure the spare cutter is fully retracted, then adjust the depth fence to the correct height and tighten in position. To commence the cut is no different to using the Record #043, you start from the far end of the groove, and work your way back, repeating the same process until you have reached your targeted scribe mark, along the full length of groove. My personally preference is to adjust the cutter for the final pass, taking a full length light shaving. After widening the groove (or rebate, or rabbet, whatever takes your fancy) the bottom floor may need a light clean out with a hand router.



Hopefully someone found this information of relevant value.

regards Stewie;

 

[swagman]

As to the easiest method to correct an out of alignment skew angle on both blades; 1st remove the depth stop and both blades, on the underside of the blades mark an area close to the cutting edge with a dykem or permanent marking pen, slide the blades back into position and tighten with cutting edges fully exposed, use a small 90 degree engineers square and scribe mark the return angle on the back of the blades nearest to the cutting edge with the rest side of the square hard up against the bottom skate of the plane, remove both blades and grind a new fresh skew angle to match the scribe-d lines, if you have an adequate set up on your grinders tool rests you can reduce the time taken on the honing stones, finish off the sharpening process by honing the blades to a very sharp cutting edge, re-install both blades and depth stop.

Stewie;

 

[swagman]

There are 3 important criteria I base my decisions on when selecting the appropriate hand plane to use with my woodwork, and not 1 of them covers the need for that tool to be a certain brand of manufacturer. That's left for tool reviewers to worry about. The 1st and foremost is being able to read the grain on the surface I am working with. The 2nd is selecting the right hand plane to suit that grain type, as well as its dimensional size. The 3rd is understanding that a sharp cutting edge on the plane iron will deliver me the optimal results I am after.

Moving on to an example today where those 3 critical criteria came into play. I needed to flat dress, on all 4 sides, 2 short lengths of 260mm x 70 x 23mm timber for the final sharpening stone box I am working on. The timber is Australian Jarrah, with some slightly challenging directional grain. I could have chosen a double iron wooden or metal soled smoothing plane, but I needed something slightly smaller in footprint to allow me a closer view during the surface flattening process.

I chose to proceed with a Stanley low angle block plane. A slightly steeper micro bevel was needed for this type of grain, which took little time to hone to sharp cutting edge.



Then it was on to dressing the stock on all 4 sides. The end results were most acceptable, with only a couple of tiny areas along the side grain that showed signs of tear out. Those areas will be addressed later nearer to completion of this project.



This is the last topic of discussion I will be posting on this forum site.

All the best to you and your families over the xmas - new year festive period.

regards Stewie;