Standard lamp

[benitod]

There is a dedicated tool available with a spoon shaped end for drilling. Can't say I've ever used one. I have made a few by routing a channel in two pieces and then glueing them together before turning. The trick is to keep them symmetrical so the hole is centered.

This is the way I made it.

 

[Rhossydd]

You can buy long hole boring bits for turnery (as above) made by Record etc. but I'm making my next one from one of these - FAMAG 8mm Boarding and Plumbing Auger OAL 1000mm C| at Zoro

I'd be concerned that with most of the length of the tool behind the cutting bit being a smaller diameter it would be far more likely to wander off centre.
For it's intended use a degree of wander wouldn't be a problem, but when turning a relatively thin part things might be very different.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Not sure if I have done this correctly. The photos are of the Axminster wood boring kit. The (over expensive) drill bit which is too flexible and bent when it hit a knot and came out of the side when drilling. You will only get about a 640mm deep hole as the length of the tail stock and the handle takes up the remaining length. The Zoro bit of not as long as the Axminster but a lot cheaper. An alternative if to use an 8mm dia masonry bit but it will need a bit of sharpening. Yes it would be cheaper to buy a standard lamp but that is not really the point. All good fun! Happy New Year.

Except you wouldn't normally drill a 640 mm hole, you'd drill two 330mm holes.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I'd be concerned that with most of the length of the tool behind the cutting bit being a smaller diameter it would be far more likely to wander off centre.
For it's intended use a degree of wander wouldn't be a problem, but when turning a relatively thin part things might be very different.

The shaft of a normal deep hole boring bit with a shell auger is usually a little smaller than the leading edge.
I made long hole boring bit with 8mm bms rod and an 8mm drill bit silver soldered - it worked OK.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Except you wouldn't normally drill a 640 mm hole, you'd drill two 330mm holes.

Incidentally, they rarely line up perfectly which is why it's a good idea to put a cord through the parts before gluing up - you don't want the end of the flex snagging two or three feet into the finished item. If you ever need to put a new flex on one attach the new one to the end of the old one and pull it through - don't pull the old one out and presume you can just drop a new one through. Damhikt.

edit - you can of course put the flex through while it's still in parts.

 

[Jonzjob]

Ihave made a couple of standard type angle poise and as my CL1 only has a 34" capability the uprights were done in 2 parts. The method I used to put the hole down the middle was to cut the uprights in half on my band say and route the hole our, ½ on each side and then glue the halves back together.

That made absolutely sure the hole hadn'e wnadered. I also have the long hole boring auger and found that it lways wandered, so that's why I cam up with my method.

The arms were done the smae way and it works every time

I also do table lamps the same way

A GU10 lamp holder with a LED spot in it works wonders and the shade doesn't suffer. It's easy and works a treat.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

If appearance doesn't matter a channel up the centre is ideal.

 

[Jonzjob]

You would have to look very carefully to see the join Phil, so even when appearance does matter the routed channel is ideal and always straight down the middle.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Certainly, if the item is merely functional and made from a plain timber like beech, but I wouldn't want to see the joint on something made from something much more figured e.g. yew.