Spotting dried glue

[tim]

How can you tell if you've cleaned up all the glue from a joint apart from apply finish and see it not take!

Are there any sneaky or clever tricks that I can employ? I'm using Titebond III on cherry.

Thanks

Tim

 

[SketchUp Guru]

Try wiping the area with mineral spirits -- you'll have a different name for it. you'll be able to see if there's any glue that needs to be sanded.

I prevent the problem by dry clamping the joint and rubbing a bar of paraffin along it to seal the wood and prevent the glue from soaking in. I just let the squeeze out remain as little blobs along the joint. Then, when the glue has hardened a cabinet scraper makes quick work of the squeeze out and most of the paraffin. A wipe with the mineral spirits gets the rest of the paraffin.

 

[Colin C]

Or when you do your glue up, use a brush ( paint or old tooth will do ).
When the joint is glued up use the brush to get the glue off ( must make sure
the water you use is clean ) and use a clean cloth to get off the rest.
I have used ( and still do )to get glue off chairs I have helped make for 22 years now and find it works for me and all the makers that I know

 

[Philly]

Tim
As Colin says, you can wash it off "A La Norm" but make sure you use Ionised water or something really pure. Cherry (and Oak, etc) will react with any iron salts in the water and turn black (DAMHIKT) and is a pipper to remove. :roll:
HTH
Philly

 

[Chris Knight]

I much prefer Dave's approach, I find that it is too easy just to spread the glue around when trying to wipe it off. I either do that or pre-finish at least up to the point where I have a surface glue won't stick to. Also as he says, white spirits will disclose where traces of glue may have been left, although I prefer to use naphtha as it evaporates quicker than white spirits

 

[jasonB]

For the ultimate easy of seeing where the glue has gone Titebondmake one that shows up under UV light.
Not sure if you can get it in the UK

Jason

 

[SketchUp Guru]

Gotta remember it's "white spirits". Thanks WH37. Naptha is good, too. It does evaporate more quickly but I never seem to have any around.

Don't rub on the black spirits. They can get a bit testy. :shock: :lol:

 

[woodbloke]

I use a cut down half inch glue brush which I make barely damp with water and then I can easily clean up any excess, though I find that if the minimum amount of glue is used ( a very thin smear on each surface) very little is squirted out from the joint. Alternatively, if interior parts are polished and waxed before assembly any excess glue can be removed (before it sets really hard) with the point of a scalpel - Rob

 

[tim]

Thanks guys. The issue is not about how to prevent glue spread but how to check for any undetected glue. White spirit it is then (cos I'm all out of naptha!)

Cheers

Tim

 

[Newbie_Neil]

Chris

I prefer to use naphtha as it evaporates quicker than white spirits

Is naphtha readily available? Also, will it spot any sanding marks?

Thanks
Neil

 

[Chris Knight]

Neil,
I buy mine from Bolloms - I imagine you can get it from any of the folk like Mylands, Jenkins, Morrells etc. It is often sold as a thinner and may be labelled as such. If you look at the tech sheets they will usually say what it is.

It doesn't show up sanding marks particularly well but then neither does white spirit.

The best thing to show up sanding marks is - sanding! If you sand with a 500 grit paper you will be amazed ( and depressed!) at how imperfections show up with the small collections of fine dust highlighting every unwanted scratch.

 

[Newbie_Neil]

Thanks Chris

 

[tim]

Chris

I know that this is now getting a bit OT (but its my post so my rules!) but why do you sand so fine?

I rarely go beyond 240 sometimes to 320 but use finer ie 1500 or 600 W&D for rubbing down finishes.

I find that anymore than 320 tends (IMO) to make the wood lose a lot of its 'realness' and potentially look a bit plasticky. I must admit that I favour oil and wax as a satin finish rather than a gloss but I have often wondered if there is a point beyond which there is no discernible difference.

Cheers

 

[Philly]

I agree Tim-anything above 320 seems to polish the wood not abrade it!
I prefer to rub out the finish instead of sanding too fine.
Just my 2p worth :wink:
Philly